Memorial to British poet, rare Skyrian miniature horses and other highlights

Although we nearly lost our boat when it dragged at a weedy anchorage (reported in my last blog) in Skyros, we did end up having an amazing time there.

One day we took a taxi with Sue and John from Catabella to the capital (also called Skyros but known locally as Chora, meaning town in Greek) which is in the forested northern part of the island.

The town is built on the side of a hill on top of which sits the remains of a Venetian castle. We enjoyed nosing round the maze of narrow streets that rise steeply up the hill.

There was a great shop that sold all sorts of things you didn’t know you needed – we managed to escape without spending any money but Jonathan was sorely tempted by some of the ships’ lanterns, one of which came from an old cargo ship that the owner had worked on (and had visited Australia in!) many years previously.

Another shop sold local olive oils, honey and other delicacies – of course we stocked up!!

There were also shops full of lovely ceramics and others that sold small intricately carved furniture – mostly small chairs – some of which were tiny enough for a doll’s house.

We chatted to the owner of one shop who told us that her tiny clothes store used to belong to her grandfather who had used it mostly for storage. Jonathan was intrigued by the carved timber ceiling – made from cedar, with slats in between – it was apparently at least 200 years old but looked good as new.

Another day we hired a car and had a wonderful day exploring the island. We stopped to look at the Skyros archeological museum which sits half way down a cliff. Above it is a car park and lookout with magnificent panoramic views and a nude (not sure why!) statue of the famous British poet Rupert Brooke who died in a hospital ship anchored off Skyros on 23 April 1915.

It seemed serendipitous that only a few weeks earlier I had been in Rupert Brooke’s beloved Grandchester in Cambridge, England, and here I was now on the very island he died, thinking about him again but instead of the whimsical poetry of The Old Vicarage: “Stands the Church clock at ten to three?
And is there honey still for tea?” it was his poem The Soldier that was in my head: “If I should die, think only this of me. That there’s some corner of a foreign field. That is for ever England”.

The archeological museum was small but very interesting with exhibits found on archaeological sites on the island that date from Neolithic period onwards.

After a look round the museum we drove to the north of the island which seemed to be almost uninhabited but thick with forest and rocky outcrops. Stopping at a lovely little cove we were hoping to enjoy a beer and a Greek salad at the small beachside taverna – unfortunately it was closed!

Back at the port where our boats were moored, there wasn’t much to see although there were some pleasant tavernas, cafes, a bakery and a pretty church perched above the village.

The highlight of staying at the port was when the ferry came in. It is actually owned principally by the Municipality of Skyros, together with the Monastery of Saint George on the island.

The island is justifiably proud of their ferry – it keeps the island “alive” by bringing in tourists and providing a vital link with the mainland. Almost all its employees are residents of the Island – 50 families make a living exclusively from their work on the ship.

No surprise then that every evening (and on special occasions in the daytime too) when the ferry approaches the port, its arrival is celebrated to the sounds of that famous piece of music by Richard Strauss “Also sprach Zarathustra,” (used to great effect in the movie 2001 – A Space Odyssey). It’s played loudly – very loudly and echoes around all parts of the port.

The other highlight of our stay in Skyros was a visit to an amazing organisation called the Skyros Island Horse Trust – Friends of the Skyrian Horse.

Since 2006 Amanda Simpson and Stathis Katsarelias have worked together, with the help of volunteers, to protect the Skyrian Horse – one of the oldest and rarest breeds of horse worldwide – in the horses’ homeland.

Amanda and Stathis have created a safe and secure place for these delightful miniature horses to live and have also increased the quality of this extremely rare breed through selective breeding.

They are now looking after 36 Skyrian Horses (approximately 20 per cent of the total Skyrian Horse population world wide), 23 of which they have bred.

Sue and John’s son and daughter-in-law Andrew and Lisa had visited the farm once before – last year – and were very keen to return as it had made a big impression on them first time round.

As we were ushered into the main paddock one of the diminutive horses in the herd came up to greet us. Lisa stayed outside the paddock with her and Andrew’s two fluffy white Samoyed dogs as a precaution – just in case they spooked the horses – but it was too late!

The horse that came to greet us went back to the herd and in the mystical body language of all horses, told her friends of these scary fluffy white wolves that were bound to attack them at any minute- and that was it! The herd of about 20 horses spent the next three minutes or so haring up and down a narrow strip of land at the top of the paddock.

It was quite a sight to see these normally extremely placid and gentle little horses galloping at top speed towards us, skidding to a halt and then turning round to run back pell mell – several times!

Eventually they calmed down and we were able to watch them as the volunteers fed them their hay and a specially concocted mineral mix to give them all the nutrients they need.

Amanda and her helpers also care for some very elderly and sick Skyrian mates in another paddock. These old timers and sickly horses are given a diet suitable for their needs and live a quiet comfortable life in their peaceful paddock.

In yet another area are the stallions who would far rather be in with the mares but of course, that’s just not feasible!

The rescue centre is run entirely on contributions from supporters, visitors and professionals (dentists, vets, farriers etc), often from overseas who donate their services.

A total of 1090 bales of the lovely hay that was being given to the horses was recently purchased from donations to this year’s hay drive (some of the bales came all the way from Bulgaria due to a wet spring in Greece ruining much of the hay crop).

Sadly the future of the foundation is precarious as Amanda and Stathis are approaching their 60s and are wondering how long they can go on operating. Besides which, the land they have been renting over the years at a peppercorn rent is being sold and right now they don’t have the funds to buy it.

So all my horsey friends, look up https://www.facebook.com/friendsoftheskyrianhorse see if you can help fund raise, or send your young horse loving relatives to volunteer or just enjoy reading more and sharing information about this amazing organisation!!