Brief encounters

It was time to move on from Kas so we fuelled up, emptied our holding tanks and left town!

At the fuel dock in Kas – fuel in, waste out

As we motored past the beautiful little Bed and Breakfast where we had enjoyed a delicious spread the previous day, we were amazed to see the figure of Aysun, the very generous owner who had presented us with the wonderful breakfast. She had been waiting to wave to us and of course, we waved madly back and reflected once again on the wonderful generosity of the Turkish people.

Aysun’s lovely (and isolated) B and B (no wonder it’s booked up until October!)

Our first stop was Kalkan where we had visited on our road trip a few days earlier. We had promised to return to the Doy Doy restaurant for dinner after chatting to Farouk, the owner’s son and hearing how desperate they were for the English tourists to arrive.

On our way to Kalkan (photo credit Sue Done on S/V Catabella)
The now sprawling town of Kalkan (the small port still retains the character of its Greek origins)

We (Sue and John from S/V Catabella and the two of us) had a wonderful meal and great service and can highly recommend Doy Doy restaurant to anyone visiting Kalkan.

Farouk of Doy Doy restaurant in Kalkan
The delicious meze
The meze included this delicious fluffy bread! (Photo by Sue of S/V Catabella)
John poised to “deflate” the bread

The only problem was that the village was about a 20 – 25 minute dinghy ride to and from the anchorage (We only have a 6 horse power motor on our dinghy!). This was fine on the way there but less so on the way back in the pitch dark.

The anchorage is a long way from Kalkan town

We had an issue getting our motor to start (which is really most unusual) and all the way back we felt a little nervous that the engine might stall leaving us bobbing about like a cork in the middle of the bay.

Sue and John shone their powerful beamed torch to guide us in and we knew they would be there to rescue us if we needed it! That’s one of the many advantages of travelling with a buddy boat!

Fortunately John and Sue guided us in to the anchorage although it was pitch black at the time!
On our way again!

We set off again the following day for one of our favourite spots – Fethiye. We even managed to get a bit of a sail in !

The scenery this part of the coast is dramatic!
So good to get the sails up!
Enjoying the breeze
S/V Catabella enjoying a sail

As always, we loved wandering through the bazaar in Fethiye, going to the fish market, visiting the chandlery (and chatting to the parrot there) and wandering round and soaking up the atmosphere.

Fethiye from our anchorage
So much choice at the fish market
Beautiful fish but what are they?
The chandlery store is a bit like a jumble sale – such fun to rake through the bargains!
Always good to have a chat with the resident parrot
On the seafront of Fethiye

Sue and John had their second vaccinations while we were there and we went with them to the hospital to try and find out why Jonathan still hadn’t got the “green light” to have his first. Asli, the very helpful young woman at the hospital suggested we contacted the medical practice where we were registered to see if they could suggest a way to hurry things up.

More dancers…
….and a scene from the Pirates of the Caribbean
A unique Turkish sight – a simit seller carrying his wares on his head
In a sea salt shop

It seems there was a bit of an admin. error at the doctors and Jonathan wasn’t properly registered. It was a relief to hear there was a fixable reason for the delay and with the help of Aylin (otherwise known as the Marina Angel to Finike Marina residents) he was duly registered.

Saluting our new NZ flag!

On one of the days in Fethiye we went to say hello to Ryan, the friendly spruiker at the juice bar we had frequented when we were last in Fethiye.

Delicious fruit juices

We were able to leave our dinghies outside the juice bar where Ryan could keep an eye on them. We were also helped by Captain Murat of Smile Boat Tours. Such a lovely fellow who, while helping us up, decided he was going to put a piece of carpet on the quay to save our knees!

Captain Murat of Smile Boat tours helps us ashore
A turtle swims quietly by!

We had a very good traditional Turkish lunch at Mozaik Bahçe – again, it is very highly recommended to anyone visiting Fethiye.

Lunch at Mozaik Bahçe
Really delicious!

We spent our last night in one of the marina restaurants – it was lovely to gaze over the yachts and watch the lights sparkle on the water as the sun went down.

A lovely spot for a meal!
Enjoying the view and the food!
So pretty with all the lights reflecting in the water!
This massive super yacht dwarfed every other vessel on the water! It’s name is Aviva, it is the 46th longest yacht in the world and is owned by the Tottenham Hotspur owner Joe Lewis

The next day we motored to a gorgeous bay between Fethiye and Göcek called Ciglik Koyu. We had visited this peaceful and picturesque spot in 2020 when my sister Julia was staying with us, and it is now a favourite of ours.

It was easy(ish) to Med moor here as there were no other boats nearby and no rocks to scramble on

We had a great few days swimming, walking, people watching and doing an Emu Parade (rubbish pick up).

A well worn track to walk along
With fantastic views of our bay
Spectacular vistas!

It was a very relaxing time but as Sue and John were soon leaving to meet their son and partner in Greece, we needed to leave for our next destination- Gocek.

S/V Sunday and S/V Catabella in Ciglik Koyu
New neighbours always makes for some good people watching!
Time for our Emu parade!
The Captains doing their bit!
Everyone back on board and off they go
Peace is restored to our little bay

After a night in the noisy town anchorage in Gocek we moved to Seagull Bay in the Gocek National Park.

Seagull Cove

After going through the normal nightmare of “Med Mooring” (more of that in my next blog!) we went ashore to the newly renovated restaurant in the bay.

A travelling shop – how handy!
Freshly baked bread, some garlic, bananas and scrumptious lemon drizzle cake made by the shop assistant’ cousin’s wife!
Another shop – ridiculously expensive ice cream but worth it

We met a delightful young man called Josef who was helping the new owner turn the property from what was – on our last visit – a ramshackle but interesting place, into a proper going concern.

Chatting to Yosef under the newly built cabana
Everything was very neat and new compared to last year

Before embarking on a lovely walk up the hill and over to the ocean side of the isthmus, we promised Josef we would come back that evening for a meal.

On our walk – one of those boats is S/V Sunday
We met a donkey along the way
…and some very happy goats
The views were glorious
There were a few houses along the way

During our walk we came across a small group of cottages and stopped to look at a little goat that had curled up in the hearth of a big outdoor oven (was he tempting fate or what?!) when we were greeted by a delightful man called Murat.

Goatee you are tempting fate!

He invited us in to his house for çay made from sage, handpicked on the hillside nearby and sweetened by divine tasting honey.

Murat welcomes Sue into his home
Our tea arrives
Sage tea – a first for me, it was very refreshing

We chatted about weaving carpets, his goats, the number of families who lived nearby (about 25 and maybe 30 in winter) and we asked if they had honey to sell (which they did).

Murat took this one

Murat also carved some really lovely spoons out of olive wood, camphor, sandalwood and cedar. Of course we bought some of those too!

Murat showing us a work in progress
Some finished spoons

Chatting to people like Aysun, “Ryan”, Captain Murat, Josef, Seagull Bay Murat and his wife, is one of the main reasons we travel. These encounters may often be brief but it is always so interesting to get a window on someone else’s life and to try to understand a little bit about them as individuals as well as about Turkish life and culture.

A lovely photo of Murat. Photo credit Sue from S/V Catabella

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Salty tales from Bali Hai

In 2015, after a break from cruising of almost 30 years, my husband and I sailed off into the sunset - this time to the wonderful Islands of Indonesia and beyond. Three years passed and we swapped sails for wheels driving through Scandinavia and Europe in a motor home. Now we are on the brink of another adventure - buying a Lagoon 420 Catamaran in Athens. This is our story.

4 thoughts on “Brief encounters”

  1. Hi again Dot and Jonathan!

    Love your last sentence of this blog, just our philosophy too!

    Beautiful scenery, lovely fresh produce, friendly and helpful people reminds us of Skopelos, when we first discovered it in the 1970’s.

    We can understand why you have forsaken Greece for the time being? for Turkey

    Keep safe and well,

    Love Sally&George x🤗x

    Like

    1. Hi Sally and George, I’m so glad to hear from you as I’ve been wondering how you are and what you’ve been up to! I’ve been intending to email you for ages but somehow haven’t pulled it off! How are all the family? Hoping everyone has kept safe and well! Glad you can relate to the blog – travelling really is all about the people! Talking of which, our buddy boat owners Sue and John have just been to Skopolos – to meet their son and his partner who had just bought a boat in Volos! I was so jealous! Unfortunately we can’t go to Greece by boat – yachts are not allowed to travel to and from Greece/Turkey. It’s political, not about Covid. Such a shame as we can see Rhodes and Simi as we travel round this area! So near but so far. Sue and John really loved Skopolos. Parts of it look unchanged judging by their photos!! Hope you’re both well and happy, love and hugs xxxx hopefully we will meet in Skopolos in the spring??

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