Gunshots in a lonely anchorage

Kıyıkışlacık and the enchanting remains of ancient Iassos in Turkey would remain in our memories for ever! Our next few stops were less exciting but nevertheless enjoyable.

Kıyıkışlacık village
Farewell fascinating Iassos

We sailed back down Asin Körfezi, a small gulf at the eastern end of Güllük Körfezi and made for an anchorage in Çam Limanı, a very large bay which was well protected from the Meltimi winds which were blowing up hard and fast.

Our route to Çam Limanı

On land we could see a couple of small buildings (fishermen‘s huts?) and a herd of goats. The only noise apart from the wind in the trees was the tinkling of the goat bells and the chatty bleating of the goats as they nibbled their way along the wooded area just up from the seashore. Oh and we heard the sound of a gun being fired which was a little unnerving.

Not much to see except for a couple of fisherman’s huts
The only noise came from the goats!

Amazingly there were no other boats in this massive bay so apart from the occasional sound of shots being fired it was very peaceful!

Ours was the only boat on the bay

On land we walked along a lovely wooded path until we came to a rocky track which turned inland and up a hill.

We found an old jetty to tie up to
One of the fisherman’s huts
We followed the wooded path

We hadn’t walked very far before we started to see piles of stones scattered over a large area. A closer look revealed the remains of stone walls and red roof tiles. There had been a village here but it was difficult to know whether it was an old Greek fishing village that was destroyed at the time of the 1923 Greek/Turkish population exchange or something altogether older.

Another view of our lonely anchorage
Ruins of a village but from which era?
Definitely from a roof tile but
we couldn’t date it

The next day we walked along the sea shore and followed it right round the bay.

Looking back to where we had started our walk

After a short walk over an arid open area we came to a small farmhouse which looked as though it was in the process of being modernised.

The arid open area where we found a small farmhouse
Looked like some modernising was going on here
We were amazed to see this brave little flower surrounded by rubble and dry grass

After being politely warned by an enormous but handsome Anatolian Sheep dog (Kangal Shepherd) not to get too close to his herd, we met the first (and only) people we came across in this lonely bay.

The herd of sheep – well camouflaged!
Anatolian Sheep dogs (Kangal Shepherd) – are beautiful animals

Here was the source of the shots we had heard – a man and his wife sitting at the waters edge having a picnic. The man was sitting with a rifle in his hands. We think he was trying to shoot a rabbit for dinner but we are not used to seeing firearms of any sort in “real life” so it felt slightly threatening.

Well away from our gun toting friend we noticed some ruins in the distance. As we got closer we realised that some of the remains were of a Church but once again, we wondered from what era they were dated.

We were pretty sure that these were the remains of a church
Jonathan having an explore
We wondered from what era these
ruins were from

Further on we saw a fine house with wonderful views but which had been abandoned before it had been completed. This was very new and we felt sure that this building was from the modern era – unlike all the other buildings we came across scattered along the shore.

This house looked as though it had been abandoned before it was finished

All the ruins made it a mysterious place with a haunting atmosphere and we wished we could find out more about it.

This place was mysterious
All the ruins made for a haunting atmosphere
We wished we could find out more
about these ruins

We sailed on to the next large bay and anchored in a spot that wasn’t named on the chart but has been dubbed “Paradise Bay” by visiting yachties.

The next anchorage has been
dubbed “Paradise Bay”

While it was a very pretty anchorage we were sad to see that once on land it was less of a paradise and more of a public toilet and rubbish depository.

It was less of a paradise and more of a public toilet and rubbish depository.
We were sad to see this mess left by visitors

However, the water was wonderfully clear, the walks around the water’s edge extremely pretty with different pathways to wander along where we could enjoy the lovely views.

The water was wonderfully clear
The walks along the water’s edge were pretty
There were lovely views from the footpath
Sunday at anchor

After a couple of days we moved on right to the head of the bay and anchored for a night at Kazikli Koyu. It was very quiet and peaceful, and there were no other yachts anchored and not much happening on land either.

Kazikli Koyu

We went for a stroll and saw some more deserted stone houses which we felt sure formally belonged to a Greek fishing village before the population exchange.

Lots of wood ready for winter and behind deserted houses

We found the remains of an old windmill and were amazed to find a small herd of goats locked inside. One or two of them were very curious and jumped up on a stone ledge and stood on their hind legs to have a good look at us.

We found the remains of a deserted windmill
Inside the windmill was a small herd of goats
Some of them were very curious
Such a cute goat

Our next anchorage was in another large bay at Arbuk Sahil, a beach resort with not much to recommend it except it was very sheltered from the wild Meltimi winds. It also had a big Migros supermarket very close to the beach so we were easily able to get well stocked up with food and wine.

The beach resort of Arbuk Sahil

We waited out the strong winds in this super calm anchorage with easy access to go for walks on the beach and on the small island (adasi) of Sapli.

Sunset over Sapli Adasi
The town looked better by night
The anchorage was super calm

The tiny little island was actually accessible from the mainland by clambering over a line of rocks just below the water – this seemed to be a very popular activity with the holidaymakers staying in the myriad of holiday apartments arranged in neat rows up the hillside.

Our view of Sapli Adasi
Walking on Sapli Adasi
View of town from Sapli island
Sunday in the lovely sheltered anchorage
We parked our dinghy here
Almost olive harvest time

The weather had calmed down a little so we decided to double back and make for the absolutely delightful seaside village of Gümüşlük. The entry into this lovely little bay is completely hidden until you get past the small islet at the entrance.

View of the small island at the entrance to Gümüşlük

You have to be careful as you enter as there is a reef protruding from the rocky promontory (the site of ancient Mydos) opposite the islet.

This hill is at the other side of the entrance

We motored right to the end of the bay but it was extremely crowded so we retraced our route and anchored opposite the village jetty.

The harbour is very small

Once ashore, we wandered through the atmospheric village. Although there were a number of restaurants and tourist oriented shops, Gümüşlük still retained its village atmosphere and definitely didn’t feel over-touristy or spoilt in any way.

Lovely desserts on display
There were some great beachside restaurants
The hill was part of ancient Mydos
There were some pretty laneways
Another fabulous restaurant

We went for a walk along the beachfront and then down a small lane leading away from the harbour. Soon we were in the midst of fields interspersed with the occasional ancient ruin. Walking along the rough track it was easy to believe we had gone through a time warp. It felt like nothing much had changed since Myndos was in its heyday in the 4th Century BC.

Feet in the water dining
The dinghy park
Found outside a house
We went for a walk down a small lane leading away from the harbour
Walking along the rough track it was easy to believe we had gone through a time warp

Later we went for a meal in a cosy restaurant on the beach that we had spied on our walk.

Ancient remains just casually there at the water’s edge
Moon rise over Gümüşlük

As we enjoyed our pre-dinner drink we realised that the music being played was actually Greek music. Wondering whether we might be mistaken, we asked the very friendly owner to set us straight.

Greek music in Turkey?!

“Yes of course, it is Greek music,” he said. “This a Greek restaurant”. A Greek restaurant in Turkey? What was that about?

A Greek restaurant in Turkey?

“Ah!” Said our host, “Turkish people love the Greek Beach experience!”

Driving back in the dinghy by the light of the full moon after our Greek Beach
experience in Turkey

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Salty tales from Bali Hai

In 2015, after a break from cruising of almost 30 years, my husband and I sailed off into the sunset - this time to the wonderful Islands of Indonesia and beyond. Three years passed and we swapped sails for wheels driving through Scandinavia and Europe in a motor home. Now we are on the brink of another adventure - buying a Lagoon 420 Catamaran in Athens. This is our story.

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