All on our ownsome for dramatic landfall

For the first time since we joined the Sail2 Wonderful Indonesia Rally we sailed without the company of other boats on the overnight passage from Hoga Island to Lowoleba on Larantuka Island.


A beautiful moon to help us on our way
The passage was mostly uneventful – the seas were gloriously calm, we had a bright, almost three quarter moon and more wind than we were expecting although we did have to turn the motor on in the early hours.


We had a gloriously calm sea
The entry into Lowlebala on Larantuka was breathtaking for as you make landfall you see not one but two live and very imposing volcanos rising up on either side of the boat!


Lowoleba  itself is a dirty, dusty port with ferries and cargo boats coming and going at all times of the day and night .  


Rally boats at anchor in Lowoleba
We arrived too late to go on the tour to a festival a two-hour drive away but hearing the stories of the wearing road trip on abominable roads in flat bed trucks with seats and a rudimentary cover, from those that did go, we weren’t sorry to have missed it.

While the crews of the other boats were away we walked several miles into the town along a hot, dusty road with massive holes and other hazards to surprise the unsuspecting tourist.

We bought some fishing tackle and “paket data” (credit) for our phones and then walked all the way back again. Fortunately, we arrived in one piece and there were cold beers on sale at a cafe near the dinghy park to our great relief!
In the evening we experienced the day’s transport which took us to the gala dinner in a hotel in the hills. 

Arriving shaken but not stirred we sat through some speeches we couldn’t understand (some in English but the sound system was so bad that you could only make out the odd word!)


However, there were some excellent dancers and musicians playing instruments that we had not seen before, including a fabulous percussion orchestra composed of players hitting bamboo drums each tuned to a different note.





 By 10.30 we were exhausted after our two-night sail so when one of the rally participants found a lift in a truck we gratefully hitched a ride!

We spent one more day in Lowlebala during which we organised our laundry and re provisioned with excellent fruit and veg at the local market.


The town looked much better from the water and sunset over the two volcanoes was a sight that I will always remember. 


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Salty tales from Bali Hai

In 2015, after a break from cruising of almost 30 years, my husband and I sailed off into the sunset - this time to the wonderful Islands of Indonesia and beyond. Three years passed and we swapped sails for wheels driving through Scandinavia and Europe in a motor home. Now we are on the brink of another adventure - buying a Lagoon 420 Catamaran in Athens. This is our story.

2 thoughts on “All on our ownsome for dramatic landfall”

  1. What stunning pictures of the moon and the calm sea, not to mention the two volcanoes! Another gorgeous place to add to your list – it must be getting longer by the day. It looks as though every place you go is better than the last – it can’t go on like this, surely?! (hope it does, though). The performers’ headgear looked pretty amazing too.

    You’ll enjoy it all the more in the knowledge that the weather here in the UK has been grey and gloomy for days …

    Best love to you both, Sarah


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