Anxiety and stress from “Cat-fishing” by Kos Customs

The Greek island of Kos is a fascinating place steeped in history but for us it will always be remembered for the anxiety and stress caused by officialdom there.

Kos is steeped in history

We were checking out of Greece to go to Turkey as our 90 days visa free Schengen period was well over – due in large part to our extended Covid19 lockdown stay in Athens.

You see ancient remains everywhere – this was randomly placed on a pavement

Our first preference was to stay in Greece as it was very safe compared to Turkey from a virus viewpoint, plus exploring the Greek Islands had been a long-held dream. What could be better than to do this post-lockdown when hardly anyone else was cruising this amazing part of the world?

Ancient stones are incorporated into more modern structures such as walls

To this end we decided to go to the Immigration department to enquire whether we would be allowed to take a day trip to Turkey leaving on our Australian/NZ passports and return on our British passports.

A statue of Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, who was born in Kos

The port police told us that the Immigration Office was a short walk away round the bay and we would see it on the right hand-side.

We looked onto this beautiful old tree from where Sunday was tied up. The stones are part of the 14th Century Fort

It was extremely hot and by the time we had walked to the building that we thought was the Immigration Office, we were feeling sticky and uncomfortable so we were dismayed to see a big queue of people and no shade to wait in.

We thought this building was the Immigration office but actually it belonged to the local power company!

Fortunately it didn’t take us long to realise that this was actually a building belonging to the electricity company and we still had a way to go!

When we arrived at the ferry terminal where the Immigration Office was situated, we asked the security guard to direct us. He looked at us and said “Immigration is closed, there is nobody here” and after a phone call advised us to go to Customs which was back round the bay near to where Sunday was moored under the shadow of the 14th Century castle.

On the way back from our fruitless visit to Immigration we saw this derelict building and wondered if it belonged to a high ranking Italian or German when Kos was occupied.

So we went round to Customs and as we walked through the door the guy at the front desk held his hand up in the universal sign meaning “Halt” and shouted “masks, masks”.

The entrance to the Customs office at Kos

That was quite fine with us but it was a little disconcerting being yelled at in such a rough way before we had even approached within three metres of the guy (also he didn’t have a mask on and there was a glass screen between him and us. )

The man was seated behind the glass screen on the left

We asked if we could talk to someone about our visa status and suddenly the quiet office erupted into mayhem. One man (the boss we learned later) started yelling on the top of his voice – barking instructions to the staff.

A lady who, we gathered from Mr Shouty, was called Maria, came to the reception area and asked to see our bill of sale, our transit log and proof of payment for the cruising tax (tepai). For some reason she was insistent that she wanted to see the actual receipt for the tepai even though we had the certificate to prove we had paid it. All the while her boss was yelling out instructions from an out of sight cubicle (I never did get to see what he looked like!)

Eventually we remembered the Greek lawyer that had been employed on our behalf had sent us the receipt and we were able to show it on our phone.

We eventually found the receipt for our cruising tax (tepai)

We then asked about the possibility of returning to Greece on our British passports and before we knew it, Jonathan as skipper, was whisked off to an office and asked to list all the places we had been to in the last few years. As we had been travelling for over five years by land and by sea this was a mammoth exercise. Feeling puzzled he did his best and then said he would have to consult with me as he couldn’t recall exactly where we had been at what time.

Part of the Roman city wall in Kos

All this while, the uncouth boss was yelling out instructions to “Maria” in Greek – often shouting (yelling) over her so we couldn’t hear her questions. It felt very threatening and uncomfortable especially as we really had no idea what was going on.

Excavations of the old Roman chora

Then we received a drubbing from Mr Shouty via Maria for having been given a transit log for six months (instead of one month) as though we had been responsible for this “reprehensible behaviour.” In fact, the Customs guy in Athens had done this as a favour in the hopes we would be able to negotiate an extension to stay in Greece (due to Covid) or to leave and return using our British passports.

Imagine how beautiful this mosaic was once upon a time

This transgression would have to be investigated and the Athens Customs questioned by phone we were told.

In the meantime after more excited yelling from the loud but unseen boss, the list of countries and times spent in each was copied, stamped and squirrelled away.

The ancient agora ruins of Kos

We left feeling mystified and none the wiser about whether we could come back to Greece on our British passports although we had gathered that right then there were no ferries going to and from Turkey so it didn’t look at all likely. We were no longer wondering if we would be given an extension to stay on in Greece – it was quite clear that this just wasn’t going to happen.

The ruins were overgrown and it was hard to work out what was what

We were told that the boss would call Athens Customs about the transit log and we would have to come back the following day. Jonathan quietly suggested that he didn’t need a phone as they could probably hear him in Athens the way he was yelling.

A tiny chapel adjacent to the site of the ancient agora

I think that might have endeared us to “Maria” because as we left Customs she told us that it might be an idea to let our lawyer know what was happening. When we rang her she nearly had a pink fit!

The site could have done with some more up to date and methodical archeological investigation

“They are cat-fishing you” she said. “They know you have British passports and want to try and prove that because you have been out of Australia for a long time you are no longer a resident there and therefore liable to pay VAT on your boat in Greece, get out as soon as possible!”

Despite the rather neglected air to the site, it was interesting to walk round

We felt utterly sick. What if they impounded the boat and started the process to try and get us to pay the tax?! We knew that we legitimately didn’t have to pay in Greece as Australia is definitely still where our home is, and ultimately where we would have to pay the relevant sales tax if we entered on board Sunday but we didn’t know to what lengths Mr Shouty was prepared to go to.

I would love to know more about all the random stone, columns etc that we saw lying about.

What a nightmare! Neither of us slept well that night thinking about the rabbit hole we had inadvertently taken ourselves down.

The sun sets on Kos harbour

The next day we went in search of Immigration so we could check out of Greece ASAP. The people at Customs told us to go the Police station in the massive Italianate building on the sea front.

Walking under the old bridge on the way to the police station

So off we went and on arrival were conducted through a beautiful courtyard to an office marked “Immigration”. We were met by a lanky, very young man with bad teeth, dressed in ripped jeans and an old t-shirt.

We said we had come to check out. He made a phone call, hung up and said as he casually started to roll up a cigarette “You are not allowed to leave.”

The police station was housed in this magnificent building

With a sinking heart and a feeling of panic we said “We have to leave otherwise we will be in big trouble.”

Mr Lanky made another call. “My boss says you definitely cannot leave as the border with Turkey is closed.”

The courtyard was very beautiful

“So what you are saying? That one government department has told us we must leave Greece but another says we must stay?” we questioned.

“No, I did not say you must stay, I said you cannot leave “ he replied.

At this Jonathan and I just cracked up and started giggling as this really sounded completely ridiculous. He started laughing too as even he realised that the situation was ridiculous.

We told him that Turkey was opening it’s borders in the following day or two, we had our visas and an agent was expecting us and would handle all the paperwork. Could he not just stamp our passports and let us leave?”

Then Mr Lanky said “Well I have no stamp so you had better to go to the Immigration department near Customs and see what they say. “

Feeling just a tad exasperated we walked back to Customs and after asking around found the correct building (right next door to Immigration- why didn’t they send us there first?!)

We walked passed this Synagogue and were terribly saddened by this notice

We walked into another courtyard which had beautiful proportions and asked directions to Immigration. Once at the window we waited ten minutes for the lady on the phone to attend to us (there was a man doing nothing at another desk but he studiously ignored us.)

The next Immigration office was along this passageway

We went through our story again and were asked many questions and had to have our documents once more gone through with a fine tooth comb. Eventually it was established that we had been directed to the wrong place yet again.

This Immigration office was mainly for refugees looking for temporary visas. On our way out we realised that there were no notices indicating the location of the office we had just visited – just a big sign saying “WC”!

This was the only notice on the wall outside

Finally, we were directed back to Immigration at the docks where we had gone originally and found the office closed. On the way we dropped in at the Port Police to get our transit log stamped by a delightful port policeman who was very kind and who we thanked profusely for his kindness and efficiency (which worked in our favour later on.)

This time, at Immigration there was a nice smartly dressed officer on duty who ushered us into his demountable office and actually offered us a seat (everywhere else we were left standing).

More Roman remains in Kos

He went through our passport forensically trying to match up the stamps and make sense of them. They of course, made little sense as last year and earlier this year we had been ducking in and out of multiple countries in our camper van – some within the Schengen area and others not but often where there was no passport control and therefore no stamps in our passport to chart our progress.

“I’m sorry, I have to do this, I don’t want to get into trouble,” he said.

We had also been to Australia and back and again although there was no stamp because eye recognition was used. There were several trips to England made (the UK is not in the Schengen group) but yet again our passports weren’t stamped as we arrived and left by ferry.

View of the castle walls from our mooring

It was a bit of a muddle to be sure but had we been able to leave Greece after picking up Sunday in March, instead of being trapped in lockdown for almost three months, we would have been OK. Certainly there were no questions raised about overstaying when we left from Amsterdam airport in 17 March.

Eventually, he phoned the port police and as luck would have it, he spoke to the kind guy who we had thanked so profusely.

He came down to the port and the two of them went through the passports together. All this time, after learning the hard way that offering information can get you into trouble, we had kept totally quiet, just answering questions and not offering information.

Such beautiful carvings, it was a shame to see it just lying abandoned

Eventually, Jonathan told them we had spent a couple of months in Australia last year (we had been back for our son’s wedding) and suddenly they seemed happy with that and decided to stamp our passports.

They were actually very nice and really didn’t want to fine us for overstaying and after another ten or so minutes while they searched for a blue ink pad (theirs had dried up from lack of use and our black one was the wrong colour) our passports were finally stamped!

We felt such a sense of relief as we trudged back round the bay once again. We celebrated with a nice lunch and a walk round the interesting but ramshackle archeological site of the ancient agora which was discovered after the catastrophic earthquake of 1933 destroyed Kos city centre.

Sunday at rest in Kos

What a few days it had been. We felt exhausted after all the stress and despite loving the Greek islands, we couldn’t wait to put Greece and the treatment dished out by Greek bureaucracy behind us.

Tiny island and tied up in the shadow of a castle

Our trip through the Greek Islands was almost over – one more stop after Amorgos and we would arrive at Kos where we were hoping for a smooth check out of Greece and finally be on our way to Turkey.

Farewell gorgeous Amorgos

We wished we could have stayed longer but the Greek authorities were adamant – we had to leave, despite other European (and other) countries extending visas and visa free periods during Covid-19 uncertainty for people like us.

Our next destination, Levitha, could not have been more different from Amorgos.

Levitha could not have been more different

Whereas Amorgos was undulating, rambling and dramatic, Levitha was tiny, (9.2 square kilometres), modest, low key and unassuming – and inhabited by just one family, members of which have farmed and fished there since 1820.

Amorgos – undulating and dramatic
Levitha, unassuming and low-key

There was a diminutive but incredibly sheltered bay where the family have laid seven or eight (easy to pick up and hefty) buoys.

The buoys at Levitha we’re hefty but easy to pick up
This was the most yachts we had seen anywhere since we began our trip through the Greek Islands

They charge seven Euros a night but if you choose to eat at their little taverna it’s free (we had just had a very late lunch so we didn’t buy a meal. )

Eating a late lunch in Levitha

We loved walking up to the farmhouse along the well-marked path (paved for a few metres then rocky.)

On the rocky path looking back to the little harbour
The path was well marked
The farming family had worked hard to provide a smooth path
This was what the surrounding terrain looked like

Once at the farmhouse we were cordially invited in and given icy cold water to drink. We bought some freshly-laid eggs, some hard cheese made on the farm from a mix of sheeps’ and goats’ milk and some beautiful soft goat cheese.

The little taverna
Inside the farmhouse

The two brothers were genuinely welcoming and even generously allowed us in to enter their tiny family chapel.

The sweet little family chapel
Beautifully decorated inside
Icons in the chapel
This was on the sacristy panel

That day happened to mark the birth of my Dad who was born hundred years ago on that day. How he would have loved the reverent atmosphere of that tiny chapel and would have just relished the journey it took to get there. I lit a candle in the little chapel for him, silently giving thanks for inheriting his love of travelling and writing.

I lit a candle for my Dad
Sunset in Levitha
The faintest sliver of a moon was so beautiful

On the way to Kos the following day it was a thrill to discover that we were so close to Turkey that we could clearly see houses in the towns along the coastline.

Farewell Levitha, on our way to Kos
Turkey looked close enough to touch

At the last island before turning for Kos, we could see a military installation and an emphatic declaration to the Turks made by a gigantic Greek flag painted on the cliff.

A Greek military installation close to Turkey
Emphatic declaration – this is Greek land !

Arriving in Kos we made our way into the harbour, hoping that there would be plenty of space for us to tie up at the town quay. We were surprised to see that there were massive renovations being carried out to the harbour wall and the walkways surrounding it (we learned later that these works were to repair damage caused by a magnitude 6.6 earthquake in July 2017).

Fortunately for us, there was still a space in the shadow of the 14th Century fort that was built by the Knights of St John.

We eventually tied up in the shadow of this ancient castle

There was quite a breeze blowing (maybe 20 to 25 knots) and this was only the second time we had attempted to do Mediterranean mooring on our own. This entails putting the anchor out and then backing into a tight space with one of you leaping off to tie your lines while the other runs between the anchor and the engines trying to stop the boat hitting anything.

While we were faffing about trying to do this crazy juggling act which really requires four people, two guys from a moored tug appeared and shouted to us to move Sunday away from their boat. This was while we were in the middle of trying to dock. Did they think we were snuggling close to them on purpose?! We were definitely aiming to keep right away from their boat but the wind had other ideas!

The tug where the “workers” spent their time snoozing

Struggling (unsuccessfully) to think what the word for “help” was in Greek “I called back. Please could you help?” In English. Now last time we were undergoing this exercise was in Paros and the lovely port policeman Yiannis helped us without a word from us but not these guys – they just shrugged and went back to their snoozing positions.

Capt’n Birdseye checking out the lines

Capt’n Birdseye did a magnificent job of leaping on to the dock and giving me instructions on how to keep the boat safe. There were some scary moments though and we felt very upset that our neighbours were so unhelpful!

The Loggia Mosque minaret swathed in scaffolding after the 2017 earthquake

We hadn’t been there too long before two young port police (both female) arrived to let us know we must go to the port office to check in. I think they had seen the foreign flagged yacht on AIS (Automatic Identification System) and assumed we had come from another country.

So we took our paperwork and once they had seen our transit log and that we had paid our Greek cruising tax (tepai) they were happy.

Outside the port police building

By the time we had finished at the port police office it was early evening so we decided it would be a good time to explore the town centre.

Heading into the centre of Kos

Kos has had a fascinating history dating back to at least the third millennium BC. It was captured by the Ottoman (modern day Turkey) Empire in 1523 AD and remained under Ottoman rule until 1912 when it became part of the Kingdom of Italy.

The Italian built market square
Inside the market building

When Italy surrendered in 1943, the Germans occupied the island until 1945. In Eleftherias Square, in the centre of Kos, we were able to see reminders of Turkish, Italian and German occupation through the architecture.

The archeological museum built during the Italian occupation in 1935
This cinema is part of the building that once housed the fascist party of Italy

In 1946, Kos and the rest of the Dodecanese Islands were finally annexed to Greece.

We wondered why the Islamic crescent on the dome of the old Defterdar Mosque was bent and learned later that it was hit by debris during the earthquake three years previously. The minaret toppled and has not yet been replaced.

The Defterdar Mosque
The bent Islamic crescent

After our wander through a very quiet and empty Town centre (due to Corona virus) where we saw a Greek Orthodox Church which had been damaged by the earthquake three years previously, we took a short stroll to the seafront and walked round the outside of the fort.

St. Paraskevi Church was also damaged by the 2017 earthquake
Some of the damage close up

Unfortunately it had also sustained a little damage in the 2017 earthquake and was temporarily closed.

Walking towards the ocean (Sunday was moored about 20 metres to the left of Jonathan)
A reminder of the Knights of St John who built the castle
The castle wall on the sea front

The following day we were planning to head to Immigration for one last ditch attempt to see if it would be possible to continue to stay in Greece.

Just behind the castle is the harbour where Sunday was moored

We fell asleep thankful that we had managed to find a berth in Kos but feeling slightly apprehensive about what the Greek authorities might throw at us next.

Miraculous Monastery a marvellous and magnificent masterpiece

I wrote about falling in love with the Greek island of Amorgos in my last blog but had left the highlight of our short stay – the Monastery of Panagia Hoziviotissa – until I could write about it separately.

No sign of the monastery but it had to be somewhere along this road

This miraculous edifice hangs off the side of an enormous cliff 300 metres above the sea.

The miraculous monastery hangs off the cliff 300 metres above the sea.

First built in 812/813 AD and renovated significantly in 1088, the motive behind its construction was to protect an icon of the Virgin Mary that had been rescued from a religious community in the Holy Land called “Hoziva” or “Koziva”. Legend has it that the icon was cast into the sea and was washed up in Amorgos but historians believe it arrived by boat.

A modern icon of the Virgin Mary at the entrance to the monastery grounds

How ever it got there, the icon can still be seen today in the tiny monastery chapel (no photos allowed) along with a chisel that belonged to the master builder who prayed to the Virgin Mary to show him where to build the monastery. The chisel, and a basket of tools were found hammered high up on the rock the next day.

The view from the monastery car park

The monastery is not easy to find being visible only from the sea or when you arrive, from the base of the cliff against which it is built. There are no huge billboards or road signs, just a small unassuming board marked “To the Monastery”.

The only sign to the monastery

The monastery is 40 meters long but only five meters wide. This extraordinary feat of early engineering has eight floors with 15 monastic cells and 72 different rooms, including the very diminutive chapel.

The beginning of the long walk up

There was one other car in the car park when we arrived but no sign of anyone else while we clambered up the many hundreds of stone steps. That is, there were no people around but loads of cats!

Our little cat guide

One decided to guide us up the stairs and sprang her way up the hillside just ahead of us all the way to the top.

Our cat guide suggested a photo opportunity

As we climbed, other dear little cats and kittens came out to greet us.

Come and meet my friends
A young and curious kitten watches us walk by
View from a shelter half way up the cliff
Half way up
Still a way to go
Another cat guide appointed photo opportunity
Such an amazing structure!

Our cat guide showed us the low door we had to pass through to enter the monastery (up more stairs) which led into a cave-like room. In one corner there was another steep staircase leading up to a second solid timber door which when I eventually plucked up courage to go up the stairs, appeared to be locked.

The unassuming entry – the cat showed us where to go!
Mind your head – low door!
Another set of stairs – should we go up?

I knocked on the door tentatively- no reply. Then I heard voices and I knocked a little louder. After a few minutes the door swung open and a couple of people were on the other side preparing to make their way out. We pressed ourselves onto a tiny landing where there were two more closed doors and then after the people departed we were welcomed into a narrow chamber and then up another steep set of steps which led to the monastery chapel.

Inside the monastery

How on earth they would have fitted 15 monks in the chapel at a time I really don’t know but fortunately there are only three residing in the monastery nowadays which means it would be less of a squash during services!

A side font for Holy Water

Leading from the chapel was a balcony with the most spectacular view over the blue, blue, Aegean Sea.

The balcony leading from the chapel had a spectacular view!
The view in the other direction
Now where does that door lead I wonder?
Looking up at the belfry from the monastery chapel

From the chapel we were lead through a narrow passageway to a reception room where a monastery representative had put out water, loukoumi (Turkish Delight), and psimeni raki, the traditional drink of Amorgos, a honeyed and spiced spirit reminiscent of Christmas pudding.

We were privileged to be the only guests in the monastery

We had a very long chat with our host who answered our many questions about monastery life and the history of Panagia Hozoviotissa.

We had plenty of time to enjoy our refreshments and chat to the monastery representative

He told us that in the height of the season the monastery could have up to 400 visitors a day but they had received less than 40 guests in the whole of that week. We felt very privileged to have been amongst the latter group.

The “Big Blue” view

On our way out we were farewelled by one of the monks and signed the guest book in another long, slim room before descending two flights of stairs to the exit where our cat guides were waiting for us.

Our guides waiting to see us back down the cliff
“Come on, this way”
The monastery is eight floors high but only five metres wide

Outside they watched curiously as Jonathan stripped off his too-hot long pants (legs must be covered in the monastery) and put his shorts back on.

Changing back into shorts
We were up there!

We left this awe inspiring place marvelling at the ingenuity of the people who built such an incredible and magnificent masterpiece of architecture. It seemed to us that it should definitely be counted as one of the wonders of the world!

On our way back down we marvelled at the ingenuity of the people who built this magnificent structure all those centuries ago
Our final glimpse before leaving to return to Sunday
Enjoying the spectacular views as we drive back to our anchorage

That’s (Amore) Amorgos

When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine

That’s amore” 🎵🎶

Travelling around the fabulous Greek Island of Amorgos in our ultra small hire car, this old song kept playing round and round in my head – only with the word “Amore”(love) substituted by “Amorgos”.

That’s Amorgos!

Amorgos, the Easternmost island of the Cyclades group, is truly magnificent and an island so very easy to fall in love with.

The chora with the remains of a 13 Century castle overlooking the town

Our first stop was the ancient maze-like chora about five kilometres inland from where we were anchored and which rises to 400 metres above sea level.

The chora is surrounded by ancient windmills some of which can be seen on the ridge above

Dominated by the remains of a 13th Century castle and surrounded by a chain of ancient windmills, the chora is romantic, mysterious and utterly charming.

The chora is romantic…..
….mysterious and…..

As we roamed the intricate and deserted (because of Covid 19) network of passages and narrow alleyways, some of which date back to Medieval times, it was easy to imagine that we had gone through a wormhole in space and time and were wandering around in a bygone era.

…charming
it was easy to imagine that we had gone through a wormhole in space and time
Were we wandering around in a bygone era.?
The network of intricate passages were so lovely
It was like walking through a labyrinth
These ancient gates belonged to a very grand old house
This section looked very old
The bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs were glorious
How could you not fall in love with Amorgos?

But soon we were just below the castle at a very modern day coffee shop. Jonathan enjoyed a “proper” Greek coffee served from a little copper pan while I relished my milky but so-strong cappuccino.

Time for a coffee
Jonathan was delighted to have a traditional Greek coffee
It was very strong!

The castle remains were just that- remains – but it was amazing to climb to the top and take in the magnificent views this once-grand fortress commanded.

The castle towering above the chora
Sadly the remains were just that – remains
Of course there was the inevitable chapel perched up next to the castle
Great place to explore!
Precarious looking steps
Such great views from the castle

After a long wander round this magical place we set off to drive round the island – first heading North.

Perfect shop window!
Beautiful flowers with a windmill in the background
Loved this little courtyard

The dramatic vistas over the sea and landscape were breathtaking – photos just don’t do them justice!

Dramatic vista
View of the chora from above
King of all he surveys!
There were fantastic views from the road which hugged the coast
These goats has a great view too

We arrived in the port of Aegiali in the north of the island in time for our usual late lunch. This village is quite a bit newer than other towns on the island as in the past, settlements were built away from the sea to avoid pirate attacks.

We found somewhere to eat in Aegiali

There were a few lovely looking bars, tavernas and other eateries overlooking the ocean and the port. Sadly they were mostly empty of guests. We stopped at one and shared a delicious Greek Salad and a non-traditional hamburger, soaking up the glorious view as we ate.

….with a great view

We carried on with our tour of the island, taking in more glorious views and stopping to take a look at the hilltop village of Tholaria.

Everywhere you looked the views were spectacular!
Photos just don’t do the beauty justice
There were so many lovely views from the road
Hello sweet donkeys
The village of Tholaria
Close up of Tholaria
This old dwelling certainly had a great view!

Turning south we drove through tiny hamlets and towards a very special destination – the 11th Century Monastery of Panagia Hoziviotissa. More of this truly astonishing place to come in my next blog……

On the way south to the Monastery of Panagia Hoziviotissa
The road twisted and turned but the journey was so worthwhile

Dolphins, tiny town and the Big Blue

It seemed such a shame to have to leave the wide and beautiful bay of Ormos Agiou Ioannou on Paros after only one night but we had to get out of Greece quickly or possibly face fines for overstaying (even though for two and a half months we were required to stay put because of Covid-19 lockdown).

The chapel in beautiful Ormos Agiou Ioannou

So we kept on going and headed to a little island called Schoinoussa and anchored in the tiny port of Mersini.

The tiny port of Mersini on Schoinoussa Sunday is on the right

We had a fantastic sail there – made extra special by having a pod of six dolphins accompany us for about half an hour. Such a magical experience, always.

I was so busy watching the dolphins that I missed all the good shots!
It was such fun watching them leap out of the water then swim by on their sides to take a good look at us.

The port at Schoinoussa was really small with just a few tiny fishing boats and a couple of pleasure boats moored, an elderly navy frigate berthed and one other charter yacht anchored. The port might be small but it is regarded as one of the best shelters for small boats in the Aegean.

The “Small Cyclades” ferry
Tiny fishing boats for a tiny harbour!
The port was small but provided great shelter
It seemed quite crowded with another yacht at anchor but in reality there was plenty of space

In a cove nearby, a massive super yacht lay moored Mediterranean style (bow anchor and lines ashore attached to rocks). There was one tender for the staff (there were at least ten) and a separate shiny white tender for the two guests/owners.

A massive super yacht in a small cove nearby

On shore were two lovely looking tavernas – we were tempted to go and have a meal at one of them but had already prepared something so we decided to eat on board.

The two tavernas
This was the taverna where the occupants of the super yacht had their dinner

There are only around 250 inhabitants in two towns on this fertile nine square kilometres island but every year it receives thousands of visitors – of the feathered variety – as it is an important migratory station for many birds.

Migratory birds flock to this island

The following day we walked to the tiny Chora (main town) 1.2 kilometres from the port. The area was very rural and the tiny town was surrounded by fields with vegetables growing and sheep and goats grazing.

A windmill in the distance and fields surrounding the chora
Sheep trying to find something to graze on

We stopped for a drink at one of the tavernas and watched the world go by – a fork lift truck making deliveries (the Main Street being too narrow for a van), a man riding a donkey, children playing.

The taverna we stopped at
It had a great view of the Main Street
It was all go – first deliveries using a forklift
…then a chap on a donkey riding by

We bought some lovely fresh vegetables grown on the island before walking back on the very pleasant and well-made path to the port.

An ancient cottage
These reminded us of Australia!
Glorious bougainvillea
Port Mersini this way!
The fantastic paved stairway back to the port

That afternoon we set off for our next destination – Amorgos. We had been waiting to arrive at this wonderful island (featured in the Luc Besson movie The Big Blue) ever since we had been told about it’s great beauty by a lady who owned a photography shop in Athens.

Not sure who this was farewelling us from Schoinoussa

We arrived in the early evening and were one again the only boat anchored in the lovely harbour.

Alone again!

We were intrigued to discover that there were three entirely separate villages in this one small area – in the south-east corner the port, Katapola, in the middle Rachidi and over the other side, Xilikeratidi.

The port Katapola (with ferry in)
The middle village, Rachidi
Opposite the port, Xilikeratidi

Once we settled Sunday down we went ashore at Xilikeratidi and walked round to Katapola along the water’s edge. There were very few people about but there were a couple of pretty tavernas open where locals were playing backgammon and others enjoying a catch up with friends.

Le Grand Bleu cafe in Xilikeratidi named after the famous movie
Walking passed Rachidi on the way to Jatapola
In Rachidi there were masses of ducks on the beach
That favourite Greek pastime – Backgammon!
Lovely old timer in the port

Wandering through the old part of Katapola we came upon a tiny chapel – Panagia Katapoliani – where a priest and a young boy (we later learnt, his son) singing the evening service together. This little Church, we were told later, was built over a pre-Christian basilica, a temple dedicated to Apollo. It was interesting to see that parts of the temple had been incorporated into the structure of the Church.

Wandering through Katapola
Panagia Katapoliani – built in the site of a temple dedicated to the god Apollo
It was curious to see parts from the Greek temple incorporated in the Church building and surrounding walls
An ancient column in the wall of the Church

We were anxious to explore Amorgos as we had heard so much about it so decided to stay another day and hire a car so we could have a really good look round.

A lovely spot to people watch

So much to look forward to as the sun went down on another great day in the Greek Islands.

So much to look forward to as the sun went down

A visit from Adonis and Rocking the Rakomelo

Encouraged by the friendly Port Policeman on the island of Paros – who told us to take our time getting to Kos – we decided to hire a car and tour the island before continuing our journey to check out to go to Turkey.

So great to see more of the island by car

Before we set off, we were visited by Adonis, a mechanic (organised by our policeman friend) who thankfully managed to cure the knocking noise that had been disturbing us and which was the main reason we had dropped into Paros in the first place.

Adonis cleverly used a magnet to pull out the the float that had become loose in the fuel tank. We thought it was going to be a huge performance – possibly involving draining the fuel tank – so it was a pleasant surprise that it was solved quickly and easily.

We also organised a visit from the fuel truck and had our two, 300 litre diesel tanks filled right up – enough to motor all the way to Turkey and back again (probably twice!)

The fuel truck delivers our fuel – too easy!

After all our jobs were completed we headed first for the fashionable holiday location of Naoussa and the big bay this delightful village overlooks – Ormos Agiou Ioannou – as we were thinking of anchoring there for a night after leaving our mooring on the Parikia town wharf.

The fashionable location of Naoussa
Loved this hedgehog crossing sign

We hardly met another car all day driving around this beautiful island which we learnt, has been renowned for it’s beautiful white marble since the third century BC.

Some of the all-time great masterpieces were sculpted using Parian marble, for example the Venus de Milo and Hermes. The temple of Athena at Delphi and much later, Napoleon’s tomb, were also constructed from Parian marble. We drove past several quarries – and were fascinated to learn that some are still quarried to this day.

One of the ancient marble quarries

Round the other side of the bay from Naoussa we drove down a rough track to Cape Almyros where there is a lighthouse and a lovely chapel perched high on a cliff.

We drove down some fairly narrow lanes – glad we weren’t in the camper van!
The landscape was quite wild in parts
Apparently there was a Roman amphitheatre somewhere here but it was difficult to find

In the early afternoon we felt a little hungry so we decided to stop in the small fishing port of Piso Livadi where we had the taverna almost to ourselves and enjoyed fresh sardines and a Greek Salad sitting by the quayside.

Lunch was delicious
The bread came in bc a paper bag. Leftovers were thrown to the fish
Happy selfie
We were given a free dessert – yoghurt with outstanding preserved oranges

Before heading home we decided to have a swim and found a deserted cove where we had a lovely but very cool dip.

Lucky us, we had the cove to ourselves
It looks warm but the water was really cold
Twisting and turning our way back home

Back at the quay we happened to meet Michael when he was trying to find a tap so he could wash down his motorboat. Jonathan lent Michael our hose as Michael’s new hose had holes in it and we ended up having a long chat.

Chatting with Michael

It was one of those chance meetings that makes travelling so pleasurable. Michael is a native of the island of Amorgos where he runs a restaurant in the old town (chora) and he divides his time between Amorgos and California where his partner lives, but was currently staying in Paros.

Michael and his girlfriend are huge enthusiasts of the TV series Outlander – set in Bonnie Scotland. It turned out that they had recently visited Scotland to see all the sights and especially the locations where Outlander was filmed.

His enthusiasm for the series didn’t stop there – he has named his boat Outlander!

Michael from Outlander

We told him that we had first heard of his island Amorgos from a lady in an Athens photography shop where we had our boat “business” cards printed. While we were there she offered us a taste of an aperitif/digestif called Rakomelo. Apparently it is a traditional drink of Amorgos and her father had started a Rakomelo cellar door on the island (of course Michael knew them!)

“Ah yes,” Michael said, “that is a very nice drink but homemade is even better and I have some on board Outlander!”

So he took two shot glasses over to his boat and brought back two nips of his homemade equivalent. It was absolutely delicious and tasted of honey, cinnamon, cardamom,cloves and other herbs and spices.

Homemade Rakomelo yum!

Jonathan said that it reminded him of Christmas cake and Michael told us that his girlfriend calls it “Christmas in a bottle”!

Later we went to eat a gyros at a local cafe and had a very nice chat with the owner while eating our meal and drinking a carafe of wine which was from a wine cask but nevertheless very drinkable. We mentioned this to the proprietor when we were just about to leave and he insisted on giving us another carafe for free! Such a lovely gesture.

A complementary carafe of wine
The sun sets after a great day

As we didn’t have to return the car until lunchtime the following day, we decided to pay a visit to the ancient village of Lefkes, the original capital of Paros, perched on the side of a steep hill.

Lefkes from the Byzantine trail

We had to park the car outside the ancient village (parts of it dating back to the 5th Century AD) and walk down some steps before entering at the top of the village.

There were stairs everywhere as the town is built into the hillside
So beautiful

There were no other tourists and it was easy to get lost in this beautiful place. Every time we turned a corner another photo opportunity presented itself.

There were gorgeous flowering shrubs everywhere
Every time we turned a corner was another photo opportunity
A photographer’s dream
It felt mysterious – like a ghost town as there was no one about.
One of the sweet little chapels in Lefkes
Gorgeous bougainvillea

Following the twists and turns down the hill, along narrow passages and winding staircases, we found ourselves on a track (now a hiking trail) dating from the Byzantine era.

Following the Byzantine route
Walking this trail was like being dropped into a time warp
Lots of wild flowers on the trail
This building dated from the 14th Century
Many of the older buildings have been converted into artist studios
Another very ancient building

We spent a very pleasant couple of hours exploring this charming place but soon it was time to take our hire car back so had a cup of coffee and then we trudged up the hill back to the car park.

The imposing Church of Agia Triada
War graves at The Church of Agia Triada
Loved seeing these enormous bells in tiny chapels
Lovely spot for coffee

Back in Parikia, we dropped off the car and on our way back to Sunday we discovered a row of colourful fishing caiques moored at the quay with fishermen selling the day’s catch.

Fishermen selling their catch

That night, after we had sailed round to the fantastic anchorage of Ormos Agiou Ioannou which we had visited the previous day by car, we enjoyed delicious freshly cooked fish for our dinner. A perfect end to a memorable stay in Paros.

The lighthouse at Cape Almyros
Jonathan filleting the fish
The fish was delicious
A stunning sunset to round off the day

Strange knocking and one laid back official

It was so wonderful to be on the move after two and a half months lockdown in Alimos Marina, Athens, but we didn’t have time to linger and really get to know each of the islands we anchored at as our 90 days Schengen visa period was well and truly over and we had to leave Greece or find an official who could agree to an extension.

Leaving lovely Serifos

On the upside though, our quick trip through the islands has been free of tourists and we have had the luxury of every anchorage virtually to ourselves.

The anchorage might be empty but ferries are functioning again.

After Serifos, with its stunning chora stretching way up the hill above the anchorage, we headed for another low key but lovely island, Sifnos.

The inter island ferry overtaking us

Very little wind was predicted but after an hour of motoring we put the sails up and enjoyed an unexpected and beautiful sail, skimming along at 6.3 knots in around 12 knots winds.

A short video showing how we had the sea to ourselves

It was glorious, the seas were calm and there was not one other vessel in sight for as far as the eye could see. Just us and the islands!

We had chosen the anchorage at Kamares which had an interesting entrance that reminded us of the “Hole in the Wall” in Langkawi, Malaysia.

The gap in the cliff can just be seen

On approach all we could see were cliffs and no way through them but once we drew nearer, we could just define a small “fold” in the rocky terrain and locate the narrow entrance.

Kamares town Sifnos

Once we had anchored up we realised there was a slight but uncomfortable swell and added to that, inexplicably, we just didn’t like “the vibe”. So we motored round to another spot – Ormos Vathi which we were really delighted about as it was definitely our sort of place. .

Approaching Ormos Vathi

There were only two other boats in the bay – both Greek flagged – and one was moored stern-to right outside a picturesque sparkling white chapel with the signature domed roof.

Sunday and the other vessel at anchor
The tiny chapel on the quayside.

Once on land we had a look round the exterior of the chapel (unfortunately it was locked) and walked through an archway to the cutest little beach imaginable with a lovely shady taverna that looked very appealing.

A typical cottage with whitewashed walls
Had to find out what was through the archway!
A pretty feet-in-the-sand beach taverna

Rather than sit down and order a long cold drink we decided we should go for a walk first, so we followed the coast round to the other side of the bay. On the way there were a handful of other tavernas, a useful looking shop and a number of small holiday homes.

Another view of the quayside chapel

In places the beach completely disappeared and we had to wade through the water as we passed the houses until we reached the broad stretch of sand in front of a very nice looking hotel. Sadly it was all shut down – there were no guests due to Covid-19.

Looked like a lovely hotel but it was all closed up

After the hotel there was a series of tiny coves, each with just one or two people in. At one point we climbed up some steps and followed a low cliff path around to yet another small cove.

There were beautiful flowers over the cliffs
Flowers everywhere actually

On the way back we stopped to buy some vegetables and fresh bread before heading to the taverna we spied first for an icy cold beer.

Love this view

We would have loved to have stayed longer but apart from the visa-free time limit issue, a curious knocking noise had developed which became ultra annoying in the slight swell we were experiencing.

Farewell Sifnos

It took us a while to track down the strange knocking sound that reverberated through the starboard hull. Eventually after checking the bilges, lockers and my bathroom cupboard Jonathan realised that the noise was coming from the fuel tank which was right under our bed!

Another lonely chapel on the way out of Ormos Vathi

It appeared that the gauge float that measured the amount of fuel left in the tank had come away and was moving with the boat and banging on first on one wall of the tank and then the other.

So we decided to call into Paros, one of the main tourist islands of the Cyclades group where, we hoped, we would find someone who would be able to sort out our problem.

Rock formations on our way into Paros

The following day we motor sailed to Paros (the wind was light and intermittent) which took us about four and a half hours. When we arrived we made our first attempt at Mediterranean stern-to mooring. For those who don’t know, there are a few variations of this and the one we were trying to accomplish entails dropping the anchor and then reversing into your “parking space “ and securing lines ashore from the stern (back of the boat).

Parikia looked bigger than I remembered

This process should have been reasonably easy as there weren’t too many boats in the harbour but there was a brisk wind and we ended up being snuggled right up to a speed boat called Tequila. Fortunately the skipper was on board and was prepared to fend off if need be.

Skipper Konstantinos helps tie us up

The anchoring part (my responsibility) went pretty well and despite the poor holding our trusty new Rochna anchor dug in quickly and well.

Yiannis the port policeman asked to examine our documents before we were allowed to get off the boat

We discovered that you really need four people for this manoeuvre – one to steer, one to handle the anchor and two to throw the lines. Hmm we were slightly undermanned. However, Yiannis the Port Policeman (the very nicest, kindest official we have met in Greece) came to the rescue.

Such a nice man!

He had come to check us out as seeing we were NZ flagged thought we might be trying to enter Greece from another country which wasn’t allowed at that time.

Snuggled up to Tequila

He took the lines, called out instructions and helped us get settled before taking away our documentation to check. In the meantime Konstantinos, our skipper friend on Tequila, helped us put another line out which helped keep us well away from his charge.

Sunday nicely settled

When the Yiannis returned with our checked documents he was so helpful and laid back – first he found us someone to look at our tank which was brilliant and then after telling him we had to leave because of our visa situation he said “don’t worry, stay and enjoy Paros – with Covid-19 these are exceptional circumstances.

It had been forty years since I’d seen this chapel

As Paros was the first Greek island I ever visited and where I first fell in love with Greece – forty years ago when I was in my twenties – I definitely didn’t need a second invitation to stay!

This was the Paros I remembered
This Church hadn’t changed

Parikia, the port town, was still recognisable – perhaps a little more built up than my previous visit but as it was so quiet due to Covid-19, the place had reverted to the rather sleepy, laid back, vibe of yesteryear.

So quiet without the tourists
A sign from the old town
This might have been the place I stayed in all those years ago!
So many beautiful flowering shrubs

The iconic and photogenic windmills still welcome in the ferry passengers and the old town was just as I remembered it – the narrow, cobbled laneways, bougainvillea tumbling from the whitewashed walls of the ancient houses, the chapels and the tavernas. There were rather more clothes and tourist shops but it didn’t seem that different.

The iconic windmill at the port entrance
Lots of pretty lanes in the old town
Bougainvillea tumbling from the whitewashed walls
An ancient well
More traditional buildings
So pretty but no customers
A lovely shady spot to have a drink or meal.
This water fountain was constructed in 1777 out of Parian marble and was donated by the King of Walachia (in Romania) who was born in Paros.

One major change was the number of supermarkets and the presence of a deli! There was certainly nothing like that forty years ago. We were very happy to find Branston Pickle and Marmite (the English version of Vegemite) in one of the shops – unheard of even in the largest supermarkets we visited in Athens.

The deli in Paros had lots of goodies
We found Branston Pickle
….and Marmite

The contrast between tiny, low-key Ormos Vathi, Sifnos and the normally bustling vibe of Parikia in Paros was quite obvious but we felt both were fabulous in their own way and both epitomised all the reasons why we love the Greek Islands!

Serenaded to sleep after enchanting visit

After an unexpectedly wonderful sail from the unspoilt Greek island of Kythnos we arrived at our next destination – Serifos – in the early afternoon and anchored in a large, completely empty, bay called Ormos Koutsla.

Enjoying a great sail on the way to Serifos

The bay was pretty enough but rather desolate and lonely. There were the remains of iron ore mines and jetties on either side – apparently, the concentration of the ore here causes local magnetic anomalies.

The large bay was pretty enough but felt rather desolate
There were the remains of iron ore mines and jetties on either side of the bay

Whether it was the the unusual magnetic disturbances or the slight swell we were experiencing, we felt distinctly uncomfortable and decided to move round to another anchorage – Ormos Livadhiou.

Capt’n Birdseye trying to get comfortable in Ormos Koutsla
It just didn’t feel right so we decided to move on
Motoring past the lighthouse

As we motored towards the anchorage the amazing and ancient chora (main town) high up on the hill behind the inhabited coastal strip, gradually came into view.

The ancient chora rising up the hill

Perched on the steep hill, the white houses of the chora looked enchanting twinkling in the late afternoon sun.

The chora looked enchanting

Apart from one poor old sailing boat that looked as though it had been deserted after a long voyage, Sunday was once again the only yacht in the entire bay.

Sunday the only visiting boat in the bay.
This poor yacht has been anchored here for a long time

Later on we took our dinghy in and tied up on the narrow beach next to a taverna – closed but being prepared with hope for guests – sunshades being refurbished, tables being set up etc.

Of course a visit to Serifos yacht club was a must

We had a pleasant walk along the quiet seafront fringed with tamarisk trees before returning to Sunday for dinner. A few of the normally buzzing tavernas had a sprinkling of customers but some had none at all. With around 20 per cent of the population being employed in the tourism sector, poor Greece has suffered and will continue to suffer, massively from the consequences of the Covid-19 pandemic.

So many empty tables in the tavernas
Sunday at anchor
Wash day before exploring the chora

The prospect of visiting the chora rising high up on the hill was exciting but it was an extremely hot day and the thought of toiling up a steep path for hours wasn’t very appealing. So once ashore we asked at a cafe where we could get a taxi and a lovely young man sat us down with a glass of water and called Vangelis the taxi driver for us.

We stopped to ask where we could get a taxi
The captain went off to get some change and came back with ice creams!

A few minutes later and we were seated in a taxi winding up the hill in comfort. There was a beautiful smell in the taxi – lemony, herby, spicy – the driver must have heard me sniffing the air as he suddenly presented me with a snippet of this good smelling plant. I have no idea what it was but it could possibly be some kind of wild thyme perhaps?

Can anyone identify this plant? It smelt so good!

Cars aren’t allowed in the chora so the driver dropped us at the car park below and we spent the next few hours wandering through the beautiful alleyways and stairways.

This is where the taxi dropped us
Nearby were these lovely windmills
There were three windmills in a row just before the old town
Easy to see why cars aren’t allowed!
Lots of stairs…..
….all going up!

We climbed right to the top of the hill where the ruins of the castle lie and the ubiquitous whitewashed chapel stood.

Loved this cute house perched on the hill side
The chapel at the summit
Getting closer!
We came across another chapel on the way!
Finally reached the top!

Looking down to the bay we could just make out Sunday sitting sedately at anchor below. The view was absolutely stunning.

Such a brilliant view and there’s Sunday on the left.
Great views from every direction
Such magnificent scenery
Another amazing view

A profusion of bougainvillea and oleander in bright pinks and purples set against the dazzling, white buildings, the many churches and chapels, the bright blue skies and the blue paintwork of the houses will always be a treasured memory of Greece in general but particularly of the chora on Serifos.

On our way down, looking back at the chapel
Such a profusion of colour
We just loved this glorious bougainvillea
The whole town was a maze of stairs and alley ways
How many hundreds of years has this lintel been in place?
The chora was certainly photogenic
Yet another intriguing passage way
We were so fortunate to see this place without the usual crowds

We eventually found our way to the small main square where we sat for a while over a glass of cold beer before taking the beautifully maintained foot path (with lots of stairs) down the hill.

The town square with Church, town hall and a couple of tavernas – perfect!

On the way down we heard a violin being tuned and a few bars of an unusual and melancholy melody. Later on that night as we lay in our beds, we could hear the violin again, accompanying a folk singer who appeared to be singing a never-ending tale of love, fighting, adventure and doom.

Local kids playing on the steps of a Church on the way down
The path was very well maintained – maybe we should have walked up too!
Enjoying the views on the way down
A sweet little chapel perched on the hill side

Eventually, we were serenaded to sleep after a great day exploring the stunningly beautiful chora of Serifos.

Back on the boat where we were serenaded to sleep by Greek folk music

Reluctant departure and 49 sets of stairs

Reluctantly we left the lovely island of Poros as we had to start our journey to Kos where we needed to checkout of Greece and travel to Turkey.

A stop at the island of Kythnos on the way to Kos

Unfortunately all our efforts to extend the 90-day Schengen visa free period had failed and we had been threatened with a 600 Euro fine (each) for overstaying. Despite Greece being desperate to attract tourists back to its shores after Covid-19 the immigration officials appeared immovable on giving an extension or allowing applications for temporary (non working) residents visas.

Taken from the sand spit on Kythnos

We were pretty convinced that the Customs/Port Police in Kos would be more relaxed about our “overstay” but realistically we couldn’t afford to hang around.

Three sheep walk across the sand spit!

We had spent 70 days in lockdown and then had to wait another 14 days for our deregistration/export papers to be organised. That left us with six days to enjoy the islands before being liable for the fine.

So great to be in this lovely calm anchorage at Ormos Fikiadha

After motoring all morning and then a lovely couple of hours of sailing in the afternoon we arrived at Kythnos around 4.30 pm and anchored at Ormos Kolona. There were only two other boats anchored there and about three others anchored in Ormos Fikiadha over the other side of a narrow and picturesque sand spit. We felt so fortunate to see the Greek islands without the normal hoards of charter and other boats!

That night we realised why most of the other boats were anchored over the other side of the spit! There was quite an uncomfortable swell which increased as the night wore on. Sunday was groaning and creaking like an old square rigger and kept us awake for ages! When we woke up after a fitful sleep we decided to go and join the other boats over the other side of the sand spit so on went our motors, up went our anchor and we motored round to where it was lovely and calm and had breakfast.

The stone walls were amazing

The guidebook told us that Kythnos had a wonderfully picturesque capital (Hora) “with a charming mix of red roofs, narrow streets and Cycladic cube houses” so we decided to try and walk there.

On our way to Hora

We parked the dinghy on the spit and started our walk following a rough track which took us to a little sandy cove and then up a winding hill past fields, some with herds of goats chomping on whatever was going, and all surrounded by amazing ancient stone walls.

The quiet little sandy cove
The views were enchanting

The views of the deep blue sea and the closer crystal clear turquoise waters were enchanting. After about a kilometre and a half we reached a small bay with a tiny chapel and a nice looking and completely empty taverna.

The deep blue of the ocean

Taking pity on the proprietor we stopped for a quick drink before heading for Hora.

Arriving at the small chapel
Not a soul to be seen

The place was absolutely spotless and the lady running it so kind. She brought us olives, aubergine fritters, white bean dip and flat bread to go with our beer – for no extra cost!

The taverna was spick and span
Look what we given after ordering two beers!
We had the taverna and the beach to ourselves!

Feeling refreshed we decided to keep walking to Hora – the proprietor thought it was roughly three kilometres but what she didn’t tell us was that it was mostly up hill!

View of our anchorage with the ferry in the background from up the hill – Sunday is second on the left
We’d been walking up for a while!
Maybe we will see Hora round the next bend?
Poor hedgehog didn’t make it across the road

It was a challenging walk but the views were extraordinary and there was loads to see – big hairy goats, a profusion of wild flowers, ancient farming terraces perched precariously on the hills, a sweet donkey, a beautiful horse, the ocean sparkling in the distance, combined with the smell of wild thyme and other herbs to make it a marvellous experience.

One of the many big hairy goats we met along the way
Not much growing on these terraces now but each section would have been cultivated in the past.
There was a profusion of wild flowers by the road side
So pretty!
These looked beautiful bobbing in the breeze

Eventually we caught a glimpse of our destination – a mass of intensely white cube-shaped houses, some with red roof tiles – and after another half an hour of walking we reached this delightful little town.

Hora in the distance
What an adorable donkey
The horse was also very sweet
A pile of sheep fleeces
A colorful garden on the edge of town

With its narrow passageways, twisting and turning every which way, staircases going in every direction and hardly any signs of life, this ancient village felt quite mysterious and unnerving – it would have been so easy to get lost!

There were many narrow passageways such as this one
There were also steps going down and …..
…….steps going up!

The small town was so photogenic and enchanting. We felt very fortunate to have the place entirely to ourselves!

There were a number of chapels
…..and even more narrow laneways
The tavernas were all empty
It felt mysterious – like a ghost town or a deserted movie set

We sat down to lunch in a shady taverna where again, we were the only guests. The proprietor steered us very firmly towards selecting moussaka and we were glad we did as it was creamy and flavoursome with still intact eggplant and just the right amount of cinnamon in the meat sauce.

The taverna we chose
We had the place to ourselves!
The food was delicious….
This cat thought so too.
Another beautiful corner
What beauty lay behind these doors?
Another chapel shining in the sun
This one had a beautiful bell
Is this the way to the main road?

Luckily, we did find the one and only taxi and it took us back to the first taverna where the rough track to the spit anchorage started.

Or was it this way?!

We wandered along the last kilometre and a half rather more slowly as by then we were feeling quite tired after trudging around 13 kilometres and the equivalent of 49 flights of stairs!

The water was miraculously clear
A glimpse of Sunday awaiting our return.

Relief, bliss, sadness and exhilaration

After the last minute scramble to drop our lines and leave Alimos Marina in Athens, it was such a relief to be heading out towards Poros Island just under thirty nautical miles away from the mainland.

Farewell Athens!

Amazingly we negotiated the tight exit with no really heart stopping moments and we were soon on our way after almost three months of living on Sunday and not being able to leave the marina.

Passing by the island of Aegina

It was such a good feeling gazing at the dark blue waters and feeling the salty air on our faces. Unfortunately there was very little wind so we ended up motoring the whole way but we really didn’t care. It was just so great to stretch our sea legs again and get used the different motion of a catamaran after sailing exclusively on monohulls previously.

Capt’n Birdseye looking very happy to be on the water again

After five hours – during which we saw only a couple of other sailing boats and some freighters and ferries – we arrived at Poros.

A big container ship ahead

As it was a public holiday weekend we were expecting the anchorage to be quite crowded but the one we liked from a previous visit in November, Ormos Neorion, only had a few boats at anchor – including one yacht that had been there on our previous visit.

A private motor boat passing by
The bay we anchored in wasn’t crowded
Poros town in the distance
A lovely peaceful anchor

Once we were settled we decided to have our first swim of the year. It was such bliss diving into the crystal clear waters even though it felt very cold!

Blissful but cold!

The following day we took our new dinghy and outboard over to Poros town for their first proper outing. Our Mercury outboard propelled us quickly over to the Centre and once there, we found plenty of spots where we could tie up as there were very few visitors.

Tied up at the wharf in Poros

We had a wonderful wander round the pretty little town, walking passed the restaurants and tavernas with mostly empty tables and turning up inviting laneways to explore the less touristy parts.

Such a pretty town but really empty due to Corona virus
We love the stairs and alleyways that invite you in to explore…

We stopped to look in the tiniest of chapels, browsed the shop windows and bought a pair of shorts for me.

Butchers shop Poros style
Lots of interesting nooks and crannies
We found this tiny little chapel
Inside the chapel

Getting back was a little less smooth. Our new outboard suddenly stopped! It sounded as though it had run out of fuel but there was loads in the tank. Capt’n Birdseye quickly found a switch that should have been in a different position so fortunately we didn’t have to row back!

A beautiful sunset to end the day
This reminded us of the way children often depict the sun

Back on board we wished that our “Corona bubble” friends on Polykandros were there with us to enjoy the peace and beauty of the anchorage. They were a little behind us in the queue but apparently the completion of their export document was “imminent”so we decided to stay another night hoping for good news the next day.

One of the chandlers. “Back in ten minutes” the note said.
Twenty minutes later and even the postman who was delivering a parcel gave up!

We had another good day wandering around the town, buying a few things at the chandlers (better stocked than some of the “flash” stores on the mainland) and relaxing in our quiet bay.

The we found this Aladdin’s cave!

Infuriatingly nothing had changed for Polykandros and because we were officially meant to be leaving Greece due to our Schengen 90-day visa-free period being on the point of expiring, we sadly decided we had to press on.

Poros looking pretty in the morning sun

The following day we hauled anchor and headed to our next stop – the dramatic and rugged island of Kithnos. As we departed Poros through the narrow channel to the South we were very taken with how lovely this small town looked from the water.

Picture perfect!
Impossible to take a bad shot!
Great view of Poros as we motored by on Sunday
A slice of life in Poros

Again, there was absolutely no wind so we motored for the first few hours.

Almost out of the channel, passing a chapel
An old fortress opposite the chapel

At one point the water ingress alarm went off in the starboard engine. A quick check and everything looked fine – apparently it has always been a little over sensitive and has a history of causing a hubbub when there was actually nothing wrong!

Checking out the engine alarm
The other engine was driving us along while investigations were made

Very soon after this a lovely breeze started to ripple the ocean surface so we hoisted the sails. The main went up like a dream – after having to haul Bali Hai’s very heavy main up by hand for so long it felt extremely luxurious having a power winch to do the job for us!

Ahh! Sailing at long last!

The furling headsail came out OK but was stiff and slow – but it had been out of use for three months so who could blame it?!

Glorious to get the sails up

The sail was absolutely glorious and we were really please and surprised that Sunday cut through the water so well. The winds were light – 11 to 13.5 knots and she averaged around 5.9 knots with a top 6.4 knots which wasn’t bad.

The sails went up a treat

By the time we reached Kithnos in the late afternoon we both felt exhilarated after our first sail since November last year when we had just bought Sunday. It was such a great feeling!

Sailing past the uninhabited islet Nisida Ag. Georgios where a number of commercial ships were anchored
The smile says it all
Safely anchored in Ormos Kolona on Kithnos
Yachts at anchor on the other side of the spit
The end of an exhilarating day.