Inglis Island was a paradise but on the second day a nasty roll had set in around sunset.
Quite apart from the uncomfortable rocking, we also had the waves banging loudly against the bow of the boat. This potentially could have kept us awake during the night but we all slept so well after the plethora of seafood (and accompanying beverages) we had consumed that day.
We decided to leave quite early for Havelock Island the following morning as being in a rolly anchorage is really no fun at all.
The trip was uneventful but as we approached Havelock Island we did notice signs of tourism that we hadn’t seen at all over the previous days – passenger ferries, dive boats, a couple of kayakers.
We anchored in Laccum Harbour very close to the “Completely Different” restaurant that Quintessa and Beach House had discovered previously.
The tide was out and there was quite a lot of dead coral and rocks in the shallows and on the beach so landing our dinghies was a little fraught but we managed.
The Quintessa crew negotiated a lift in the small tourist bus at Completely Different into the local village (known as village No. 5) where we stocked up on fruit and veg, some of which was grown on the island. There was also a great little supermarket that sold tonic water (by Sch you know who) and some reasonably priced nuts.
Just over the road from the store was a stall which was selling powder paint and water pistols for use during the Holi (Spring festival) when it is the custom to “play” with family and friends by throwing bright coloured paints over each other and then soaking the colours with water!
So we all bought some in preparation for celebrations on 13 March.
We then all piled into a truck and drove to a beach (No 2 Beach) which was quite OK but not exceptional (perhaps we had just been too spoilt over the past week).
We wandered back down the road and what should catch our our eyes but a sign saying “Bar” – open 11.30 am to 11.30 pm.
We all trooped in and cheerfully asked “do you have beer?”. “No sorry no beer”. “Oh, Ok how about wine?” Same reply.
We sat down anyway as the place had a good ambiance – thatched roof, open sided, checked tablecloths etc.
“How about a gin and tonic” someone said. “Ooh yes good idea!” “Oh sorry no tonic”. “No problem, we have just bought tonic at the supermarket!” – “Sorry no gin” was the reply.
Meanwhile someone else has a go. ‘”Is there any way you can get some beer?” “We have beer but only in small bottles Sir.”
Then the beers arrive and we even manage to get a vodka for our no beer drinking companion. Ah well, TII (This Is India)!We enjoyed a very good fish curry between us and the others also had a light lunch as we were reconvening for an early dinner dinner in a short time. We took tuk tuks back to our anchorage and went back to our yachts for a siesta before dinner.
We had a magnificent meal at a Beachside Cafe called Something Different. Although the ambiance wasn’t brilliant (barn like, lots of tables) the service and the food were magnificent.
We were especially impressed with the staff who were cheerful, friendly, well trained and served our food unobtrusively and with skill.
Best of all, the food all came together so that the ten people there were able to all eat together which is something so many places just don’t get! The best service we have come across in SE Asia – and certainly better than in many places we went to in Delhi recently which claim to be “top notch” restaurants.
Although the ambiance of the main restaurant was nothing to get excited about there were some very special tables on the beach – two tables dressed with white and pink table linen, beautifully lit with candles and lamps – perfect for a romantic dinner for two.
There were also a couple of tents where the diners sat on cushions at a low table with a view of waving palms and the ocean, and ate to the sound of waves breaking gently on the beach. Very romantic!
Our evening ended perfectly with that sensational Italian confection – Affogata – ice cream drowned in strong expresso coffee and frangellico (AKA “special tea”).
A perfect end to another perfect day.
If you would like to read more about our adventures in the Andaman Islands go to:
Or read my previous blog update at: