Author: Salty tales from Bali Hai
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99 favourite things to remember
It had been a busy couple of days since we had arrived in England – first with a big family reunion and then the next day a meet up with one of my nephews and his wife and family at a fabulous National Trust property in Kent. Jonathan and I had been joined on this…
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Family reunion
The week after we arrived in The Netherlands from Australia we were on the road again in our camper van and this time – as it was the half term break – we had our daughter Hannah and son-in-law Pieter with us. We were off to England! Pieter drove the first leg to Calais where…
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Off to England!
A week after we had arrived in The Netherlands from Australia we were on the road again in our camper van and this time – as it was the half term break – we had our daughter Hannah and son-in-law Pieter with us. We were off to England! Pieter drove the first leg to Calais…
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Mystical night en route to Amsterdam
The time had come for us to head back to the Northern hemisphere once again and we decided to break the journey with a one night stop in Bali – something we had enjoyed last year on our way back to The Netherlands. As we were due to arrive in the evening and then fly…
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Boys toys and flooded in again!
When our son Ben was a small boy he was obsessed with tractors and diggers and spent many happy hours in the mud constructing imaginary building sites complete with intricate road systems. It therefore seems a perfect thing that as an adult he is now a proud owner of not just a big yellow tractor…
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Commemorative tree planting and first caravan outing
While we were in Europe last year a dear friend of ours Tas, passed away after a long illness. Unfortunately we were unable to return to Australia for his cremation or for the celebration of his life later on, so we decided to have a ceremony in January while his widow Libby was staying with…
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Being rain gods and making future plans
Being back in Australia with our son and daughter-in-law (Ben and Sarah) is really special and they couldn’t make us feel more welcome. However, it seems a massive imposition to stay so many weeks at their place and disrupting their lives so comprehensively every year! We think we have hit on a solution for the…
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Journey’s end and a truly magical experience
Our 28 day voyage from Barcelona in Spain to Perth in Australia on the Queen Elizabeth was almost over – just one more stop to go – the beautiful island of Bali. Our fellow travellers and boat buddies Sue and John were meeting their niece who was on holiday in Bali so we decided to…
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Singapore treats and Jakarta jaunts
Back on board the Queen Elizabeth we watched the twinkling of the bright lights of Colombo in Sri Lanka as the boat was untied and we slowly drifted off from the quay. The ship’s departure was an impressive sight – tiny figures heaving her massive lines off gigantic bollards, the dead slow and very gentle…
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Oh man! Oman was O Negative
There was plenty to keep us occupied and lots to observe on board the Queen Elizabeth while we plied our way from Egypt through the Gulf of Aden to Salalah in Dhofar, Oman. In addition to all the lectures, music and entertainment mentioned in previous blogs, we had cooking demonstrations, a performance of the guest…
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Captivating, magical and opulent Egyptian sights
The day trip to the Valley of the Kings and the Karnak Temple in Luxor was a real highlight of our voyage back to Australia on the cruise liner, Queen Elizabeth. The downside was that there were hundreds of people on the same trip – we were on bus number seven and there were quite…
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Precautions on board against potential terror and pirate attacks
With the Israeli military campaign against Palestine in full force only less than 120 nautical miles (roughly 200 kilometres) away from the start of the Suez Canal, we were concerned that our voyage back to Australia on the Queen Elizabeth might be rerouted around the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. Fortunately this didn’t…
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Hello Heraklion and a day in a life aboard
We were on our way back to Australia but instead of the usual long haul flights to get back we were on a sea voyage aboard the beautiful Queen Elizabeth cruise liner. The trip was going to be 28 days long and we were both slightly concerned that we might find the trip a little…
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Stepping into a film set – life aboard a cruise liner
It was a great luxury for us to let someone else worry about paperwork, passage planning, provisioning and all the preparation required to get a ship out of port. From living on our 42 feet long Lagoon catamaran to being aboard the Queen Elizabeth – a cruise liner of 965 feet – was quite a…
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Cars, plane and taxis then all aboard the Cruise ship!
The lead up to the beginning of our exciting voyage back to Australia flew by as we were frantically doing all the last minute jobs to winterise Sunday, plus packing for our trip. On our last night in Montenegro we returned to the lovely little garden restaurant called Leut that we had been to with…
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Cruising the ocean differently – yes please!
We had one last day together with our daughter Hannah and son-in-law Pieter before they were flying home to the Netherlands so we decided to make a day of it. We hired a car for 24 hours to take us on a day trip to Dubrovnik and then the following day used it to drop…
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Full house on Sunday
We were very excited to be welcoming our niece, her husband and two high school-aged children for a quick five-day visit aboard Sunday. A full house for us as we also had our daughter Hannah and son-in-law Pieter staying. The family were arriving in the morning having caught an early flight from London and driven…
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Sunday causes marina power-out after boisterous wind
We had ten days between the departure of our last visitors (Sam and Tilly) and the arrival of our next guests – and then exactly a week after their departure, we were scheduled to leave Montenegro for Australia – so there was a whole lot of work to pack into a relatively small amount of…
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Drug mule at the border
We had a wonderful reunion aboard Sunday with our guests from Australia, Tilly and Sam, although the weather wasn’t so good for much of the time. Their first night was spent in Lazure Marina near Herceg Novi in Montenegro where we were booked to winter over and where we picked them up because the weather…
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Marvellous Marina in Montenegro bends over backwards
We were exploring the Bay of Kotor and were tucked into the anchorage of Uvala Ljuta where we had discovered the small oyster shack and had enjoyed a fabulous but very basic seafood meal. The following day we set off to take a look at the nearby village and quite by chance stumbled on another…
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Making a good choice
We felt rather small anchoring in Kotor not just because of the imposing San Giovanni hill rising steeply behind the ancient town, nor because of the towering and rather foreboding mountains that surround the anchorage but mainly because of the absolutely massive cruise liners moored outside the old city walls and only roughly 300 metres…
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Montenegro’s answer to Monet’s garden
After four days of stormy weather – with high winds and buckets of rain at times – the sun finally came out and the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro had calmed down to its sparkling best. We hadn’t explored the inner part of the Bay yet so decided to pull our anchor up and take…
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Shaken but “not deterred” after cyclonic wind
We had spent the day clearing up the mess caused by an intense rain storm which struck The Bay of Kotor just as we were leaving a BBQ party on M/V Entre Nous. The downpour was so intense that we couldn’t get back to Sunday to close the salon windows. When we did eventually get…
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Inundation floods boat
We left Albania rather disheartened. I really wanted to like the place but honestly on almost every count, it’s at the bottom of the list of all the countries we have visited this year (Australia, Bali in Indonesia, Turkey, The Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, France, England and Greece). We were now on…
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The strangest check-out ever while our boat is boarded by strangers
After waving farewell to our friends Cathy and Peter, who had travelled with us to Albania from Greece, we spent a few days in Vlore waiting for favourable weather to set off for our next destination in Albania – Durrës. The anchorage in Vlore was starting to get a little noisy – pile drivers were…
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Conned out of our “big beautiful car” in Albania
From Livadi we followed the coastal boundary of Albania’s Karaburun Sazan National Marine Park. Famous for its diversity of habitats and its richness in flora and fauna, the park seems all but cut off from the “real” world. From the sea, the dramatic steep cliffs make entry almost impossible. On land the park is located…
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Waved away at gun point
Sarande in Albania had been a bit of a shock to the system after Greece. Although the bureaucracy in Greece is extremely trying and frustrating, the natural beauty and organic architecture of the Greek islands made up for a lot! In Sarande the architecture was shocking – just block after block of ugly apartments and…
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Albania – First impressions
Although we could see Albania from Corfu it still came as a surprise that it only took just a few hours to sail from Garitsa Bay in Greece to Sarande in Albania where we checked in. We were leaving Greece after three wonderful months – travelling first to the island of Limnos, from Turkey, and…
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Emergency haul out, stairway to heaven and outboard dramas
We dropped off our friend Jackie in Lefkada on the Greek mainland after a fun three weeks together aboard Sunday. She was off to Athens and onward to more adventures in Europe and Scandinavia We then left straight away for the Ionian island of Paxos as we were on a mission to get to Corfu…
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Outboard issues and dress circle seats
Way back in 2019 we had stayed in the small town of Vonitsa on the south coast of Greece’s Ambracian Gulf – not once but twice. The first time was in the spring of 2019 when we drove our camper van from The Netherlands to Athens to view S/V Sunday with the plan to put…
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Magic, Myrtos, and Mayhem
We had been looking forward to visiting Cephalonia (Kefalonia) in the Ionian Islands as we had heard from a number people about its special beauty and its peaceful, secluded coves. Our boat buddies Sue and John, together with one of their sons and his children had left our anchorage in Agia Effimia- a picturesque and…
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Fire, a strange atmosphere and a joyful reunion
After transiting the Corinth Canal we headed straight for Loutraki Harbour in Corinth where our friends Sue and John were waiting for us aboard our buddy boat Catabella. It had been an amazing experience going through the Canal – although it wasn’t the first time for me as my family had sailed through it when…
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Bucket list item – ticked off!
As soon as we had seen Hannah and Pieter off on the ferry back to Athens, we pulled up Sunday’s anchor and left the island of Poros. The sadness of our daughter and son-in-law’s departure was tempered by the anticipation of ticking off another bucket list item – traversing the Corinth Canal. We had driven…
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Strange lights in the sky – A UFO?!
A very strange thing happened while we were anchored at the island of Poros, Greece. We were star gazing on the front deck of our catamaran Sunday and way up above us we saw a line of lights moving across the sky like a sparking string of diamonds. What on earth was it? Perhaps an…
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Freezer failure as we greet guests in unexpectedly lovely island
Poros is an unexpectedly lovely island. You would think, being so close to Athens, that it would be ultra touristy and have lost its authentic Greek vibe but in fact that just isn’t true. Sure, there are a hoards of yachts tied up at the long, long, harbour wall – mostly charter yachts – and…
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A Shaggy dog story and the Lucky Bastards Club
On the next leg of our Greek Odyssey from Skyros to Andros – the northernmost island in the Cyclades – we had some delightful company, a beautiful fluffy white Samoyed dog called Gursi. She wasn’t a exactly a stowaway and no, we didn’t press gang her but we did offer to have her aboard for…
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Memorial to British poet, rare Skyrian miniature horses and other highlights
Although we nearly lost our boat when it dragged at a weedy anchorage (reported in my last blog) in Skyros, we did end up having an amazing time there. One day we took a taxi with Sue and John from Catabella to the capital (also called Skyros but known locally as Chora, meaning town in…
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Dusty departure, jet ski chaos and near dragging disaster
Milia Beach on the Greek island of Alonnisos was divine – quiet, gorgeous clear water and really pretty. The day after our heavenly spa day (described in my last blog) we had a relaxing day – swimming and enjoying the sunshine. We left our great niece Molly sun bathing on the foredeck to go over…
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Heavenly experience- just what the doctor ordered!
Skiathos has a completely different vibe to its near neighbour Skopelos – much more crowded, less laid back, more commercial. However, it is not without some charm. There are white painted buildings, a meandering maze of pretty laneways, a profusion of bougainvillea and night jasmine, and tavernas, cafes and bars literally at every turn. There…
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Tripping down memory lane. Mama Mia!
It was amazing being back in the beautiful island of Skopelos – more than 40 years after the last of several visits there. I had got to know a few locals way back in the day including a delightful couple who had run the restaurant my group of friends always frequented. The couple were called…
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Aussie street in Lovely Limnos
Our departure time from Bozcaada Island in Turkey was 6am – very early for us but entirely necessary in order to arrive at Limnos Island in Greece before the Customs and Port Authority closed down for the night – and possibly for the weekend. After an excellent sail/motor we anchored in the pretty little outer…
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Thank you Turkey but time to leave!
After much preparation we were ready to drop our lines and leave Turkey – more than two and a half years since we first arrived. However it was with some sadness that we were leaving. Turkey gave us sanctuary and care during Covid – at a time when other countries were closing their borders and…
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Back to the boat via Netherlands Spring
We had an amazing time travelling round England visiting our family. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit lots of friends as well but we are really hoping some might visit us on the boat somewhere in Greece Albania or Montenegro this year. Before we left Ramsgate for Dover to catch the ferry we tried…
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And we’re off!
After one week and one day (the additional day due to pouring rain) on the hard standing our catamaran Sunday was ready to go back in the water. She had been cleaned and anti fouled, given new windows, had her props cleaned until they were shiny as new and special prop anti foul applied, and…
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On the water again – briefly
We had a great road trip from Montenegro through Croatia, Italy and France and now we had arrived in Calais to catch the ferry over to Dover for a few weeks in England to visit our family. As ever, we loved being on the ferry – it’s always wonderful to be on the water again…
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Champagne country but no bubbles for us
It was with much anticipation that we eagerly peered out of our camper van windows one chilly morning to see what the view was like. We had arrived in Chamonix Mont Blanc, in France, the previous night – after travelling through the 11.611 km (7.215 miles) Mont Blanc tunnel from Italy. When we opened the…
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A hidden gem in Italy and base camp at Mont Blanc
We were heading to Calais in France from Montenegro via northern Italy and had already stopped at Udine and Verona both of which we loved. Our next stop was Bergamo which we thought sounded interesting from its online description – “cobblestone streets, encircled by Venetian walls and accessible by funicular,” “Bergamo is the hidden gem…
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Enchanting experience in extraordinary Verona
Italy is just such an extraordinary country – with so many wonderful places to visit – its almost mind blowing! After our lovely visit to Udine our next stop was extraordinary Verona, probably most famous for being the setting for Shakespeare’s romantic story of Romeo and Juliet. There is so much to see and do…
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Fabulous treasures and romantic Italy
After a wild night at our Croatian campsite when our camper van was shaken fiercely in the wind and the rain hammered down on our roof, we set off for the port city of Rijeka. The wind had blown the rain clouds away so by the time we were on the road, the sky was…
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Signing up for Montenegro
We’d finally arrived in Montenegro and lost no time in locating Lazure Marina where we were hoping to organise a berth for our catamaran S/V Sunday during next European winter (from October 2023). Once we’d discovered the marina we looked for the car park that we had been directed to by the marina office via…