Author: Salty tales from Bali Hai
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Dusty departure, jet ski chaos and near dragging disaster
Milia Beach on the Greek island of Alonnisos was divine – quiet, gorgeous clear water and really pretty. The day after our heavenly spa day (described in my last blog) we had a relaxing day – swimming and enjoying the sunshine. We left our great niece Molly sun bathing on the foredeck to go over…
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Heavenly experience- just what the doctor ordered!
Skiathos has a completely different vibe to its near neighbour Skopelos – much more crowded, less laid back, more commercial. However, it is not without some charm. There are white painted buildings, a meandering maze of pretty laneways, a profusion of bougainvillea and night jasmine, and tavernas, cafes and bars literally at every turn. There…
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Tripping down memory lane. Mama Mia!
It was amazing being back in the beautiful island of Skopelos – more than 40 years after the last of several visits there. I had got to know a few locals way back in the day including a delightful couple who had run the restaurant my group of friends always frequented. The couple were called…
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Aussie street in Lovely Limnos
Our departure time from Bozcaada Island in Turkey was 6am – very early for us but entirely necessary in order to arrive at Limnos Island in Greece before the Customs and Port Authority closed down for the night – and possibly for the weekend. After an excellent sail/motor we anchored in the pretty little outer…
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Thank you Turkey but time to leave!
After much preparation we were ready to drop our lines and leave Turkey – more than two and a half years since we first arrived. However it was with some sadness that we were leaving. Turkey gave us sanctuary and care during Covid – at a time when other countries were closing their borders and…
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Back to the boat via Netherlands Spring
We had an amazing time travelling round England visiting our family. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit lots of friends as well but we are really hoping some might visit us on the boat somewhere in Greece Albania or Montenegro this year. Before we left Ramsgate for Dover to catch the ferry we tried…
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And we’re off!
After one week and one day (the additional day due to pouring rain) on the hard standing our catamaran Sunday was ready to go back in the water. She had been cleaned and anti fouled, given new windows, had her props cleaned until they were shiny as new and special prop anti foul applied, and…
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On the water again – briefly
We had a great road trip from Montenegro through Croatia, Italy and France and now we had arrived in Calais to catch the ferry over to Dover for a few weeks in England to visit our family. As ever, we loved being on the ferry – it’s always wonderful to be on the water again…
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Champagne country but no bubbles for us
It was with much anticipation that we eagerly peered out of our camper van windows one chilly morning to see what the view was like. We had arrived in Chamonix Mont Blanc, in France, the previous night – after travelling through the 11.611 km (7.215 miles) Mont Blanc tunnel from Italy. When we opened the…
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A hidden gem in Italy and base camp at Mont Blanc
We were heading to Calais in France from Montenegro via northern Italy and had already stopped at Udine and Verona both of which we loved. Our next stop was Bergamo which we thought sounded interesting from its online description – “cobblestone streets, encircled by Venetian walls and accessible by funicular,” “Bergamo is the hidden gem…
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Enchanting experience in extraordinary Verona
Italy is just such an extraordinary country – with so many wonderful places to visit – its almost mind blowing! After our lovely visit to Udine our next stop was extraordinary Verona, probably most famous for being the setting for Shakespeare’s romantic story of Romeo and Juliet. There is so much to see and do…
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Fabulous treasures and romantic Italy
After a wild night at our Croatian campsite when our camper van was shaken fiercely in the wind and the rain hammered down on our roof, we set off for the port city of Rijeka. The wind had blown the rain clouds away so by the time we were on the road, the sky was…
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Signing up for Montenegro
We’d finally arrived in Montenegro and lost no time in locating Lazure Marina where we were hoping to organise a berth for our catamaran S/V Sunday during next European winter (from October 2023). Once we’d discovered the marina we looked for the car park that we had been directed to by the marina office via…
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Spectacular scenery- driving onto a film set – and marvellous Montenegro
The coast road that winds its way through Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia again and Montenegro is nothing short of spectacular! We had travelled some of this route a few years ago (before Covid) and absolutely loved it so were very glad to be driving this way in our camper van once again. By…
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Shock crowds at iconic castle
During Covid and in the aftermath of a locked down world we were very spoilt wherever we travelled – empty beaches, deserted city streets, quiet parks and if and when museums, galleries or other tourist spots were open, they were usually deserted. Fast forward to 2023 and it’s been a shock to find ourselves in…
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Füssen’s High Castle – a very clever illusion
Due to a heater failure we missed seeing most of the Romantic Road (Romantische Straße) but we were fortunate to visit two absolute highlights – Würzburg and Füssen – one at the beginning and the other at the end of this picturesque and meandering 460-kilometre route in Southern Germany. We drove to Füssen at the…
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The Romance was over almost before it had begun!
It had long been an ambition of mine to travel the Romantische Straße (Romantic Road) in southern Germany – 460 kilometres of road linking picturesque castles and historic towns. At last we were there at the start of it in the delightful city of Würzburg which sits on the banks of the Main River. Unbelievably…
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Close call with resident’s card, The Netherlands and on the road again
After ten chilly days aboard our catamaran in Viaport Marina, Istanbul, I can confirm that a yacht isn’t the best place to be when the temperatures are literally around freezing! Nevertheless, we were counting our lucky stars that we had managed to get there at all because at the end of last year it looked…
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Back in Turkey – to earthquakes and freezing conditions
Suddenly our visit to Australia was over and we were hurtling through the skies towards Istanbul. This trip, instead of travelling through Singapore, Dubai or another hub we flew via Bali – a very pleasant place to stop over and actually right now, a cheaper option. After our big dash to the airport in Australia…
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Vital skin check ends in airport dash
With just over a week left before we were due to leave Australia, Jonathan finally went for a skin check – a vital medical examination for anyone who has lived in the Southern Hemisphere and especially if they happen to be yachties! Unfortunately, a small lesion on the end of his nose that had refused…
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Ready for a rest after jam-packed January
What a start to 2023! Two road trips, many brunches, lunches, dinners and other get-togethers, a night of music to celebrate a birthday, and lots of beautiful moments enjoying the Australian bush on our son and daughter-in-law’s (Ben and Sarah) glorious property! There have been so many precious times during our last few weeks in…
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Ringing in the New Year!
Our typical Aussie Christmas continued with a wonderfully relaxed Boxing Day at the home of our long-time and dear friends the Hannigans – lots of delicious food again with great conversations and cooling off in their pool. After a recovery day there were more celebrations as it was Sarah’s (our daughter-in-law‘s) birthday. Sarah’s favourite gift…
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Christmas Aussie style
Our Christmas celebrations started in a a truly Australian way – drinks and snacks on the deck of an old “Queenslander” (an iconic architectural style of a timber house with wraparound balconies), surrounded by dogs and horses, listening to the sounds of the Australian bush on a warm steamy night. The Queenslander, which is the…
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And the surprises just keep on coming …..
After our big surprise 70th birthday party, secretly organised by our two adult children and their partners, you’d think that would have been the end of unexpected but wonderful events. However, the following weekend brought about not one, but two, such astonishing happenings. The first event was one I had known about for some weeks…
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SURPRISE SURPRISE!!
Almost a month to the day since we arrived in Australia, we picked up our daughter and son-in-law from Brisbane airport. This was their last port of call after a three month trip through Central and South America, India and Bali before their return home to the Netherlands. Their arrival in Australia meant that for…
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Australia delights
Our first few weeks in Brisbane, Australia have been a delightful combination of enjoying the peace and beauty of Ben and Sarah’s (our son and daughter-in-law’s) glorious 100 acre property on the fringes of Brisbane, unpacking storage boxes in our townhouse and catching up with family and friends. It has been so special spending precious…
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We still call Australia home
We had finally finished getting the boat ready to leave for the winter months and had our cases packed for an extended stay in Australia where we would spend time with family and friends. Everything went smoothly on the trip back and although we could have done with a longer time there, we were glad…
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The end of another sailing season aboard “Sunday”
Cappadocia is famous for its hundreds of hot air balloons but we didn’t see a single one during our stay until the very last day – even then there were only just a few that managed to launch due to the cloudy and windy weather. Thankfully we weren’t hanging out to take a balloon ride!…
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Fairyland full of good horses and fantastic frescoes
Cappadocia – famous for its spectacular “fairy chimneys”, hot air balloons and underground cities is also renowned for its beautiful horses. It is said that the name Cappadocia stems from the Persian word meaning “Land of good horses” (the Persian Empire ruled Cappadocia from 547 BC until Alexander the Great conquered it in 332 BC).…
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Jungle noises and saffron wealth
My brother-in-law announced he had dreamt that he was in a jungle with lions and tigers roaring around him – when he woke up he was surprised to find he was actually aboard our catamaran at Viaport Marina in Tuzla, Istanbul. It wasn’t his vivid imagination and love of wildlife that led him to have…
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Spicy times in atmospheric market
The short visit my brother and his family had made to our catamaran Sunday, at Viaport Marina in Tuzla, Turkey, was rapidly drawing to a close but we had an excellent last day together seeing some of the sights that Istanbul has to offer before they flew back to England. The day was made all…
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Tragic tales of dead dogs, and the demise of democracy; sunnier stories of socialising with siblings
Due to the high level of traffic and the strong and variable currents along the Bosphorus Strait sailing yachts are obliged to use their engines when they travel on this internationally significant waterway. For the most part the marine traffic is very well behaved – especially the cargo boats that sweep up and down this…
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Reunited in Turkey and a trip down the Bosphorus
Almost 20 years ago our daughter Hannah met her great friend Crystie through the Australian Girls Choir (AGC). Hannah was in the brand-new Brisbane chapter and Crystie was from Sydney. Over the years they travelled the world together with the AGC Performing Choir and stayed with each other in the holidays. In the intervening years…
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Surprise, Surprise! Room for two more?!
Between us, the crews of Sunday and Catabella have had some wonderful surprises and some other lovely things happening just recently. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves on the surprise front! The first happy event for Sue and John – and by default, for us too – was the arrival all the way from…
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Immigration office, discoveries and being dinosaurs
While our boat guest, Jonathan’s brother Jack, had a few days stay in Istanbul to see the sights, we stayed on the boat and started the application process to extend our Turkish temporary residency visas. My tourist visa had almost run out and Jonathan’s three month extension of his temporary resident’s visa was also about…
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Gallipoli – an intriguing enigma
An intriguing enigma was playing on my mind as we drove from Troy to the Gallipoli Peninsula: Why are events of more than one hundred years ago in Gallipoli, awarded an almost mythical status in Australia? If you are Turkish, Australian or from New Zealand you will have an understanding of the significance of Gallipoli…
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Destination Viaport Marina Istanbul: Inauspicious arrival
We (S/V Sunday and our buddy boat S/V Catabella) were finally arriving at our destination – Viaport Marina in Tuzla, Istanbul – which is going to be our base until the first half of 2023. With the promise of quite a few visitors arriving in the coming months – after a dearth of guests over…
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Consternation created by Coastguard’s visit
While we were staying in Erdek, a holiday town on the Sea of Marmara, we were paid a visit by the local Coastguards. As per normal they wanted to see our passports, check our visa status and examine our boat papers, including information on when our black water tanks had last been pumped out. Fortunately…
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One good turn deserves another
We had been looking forward to exploring the Marmara Islands but sadly didn’t have nearly enough time to do them justice. Part of the reason was because we had to get to Istanbul to begin the process of renewing our temporary residency visas but a sudden attack of really painful toothache also hastened the end…
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Chance meeting mid-sea “like ships that pass in the night”
Çanakkale wasn’t the most comfortable of anchorages – in fact at times the swell was quite annoying – but at least we were close to all the town has to offer. Being the gateway town to the famous ancient ruined city of Troy and also the much fought over strategically important Gallipoli peninsula, we thought…
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Heading up the “difficult and potentially dangerous” Dardanelles
The long haul north before heading up the internationally significant Dardanelles Strait – the narrow waterway that links the Aegean Sea to the Sea of Marmara was almost over. The day before we left for the Turkish island of Bozcaada – our last stop en route to the Dardanelles – we moved from the safety…
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Tantalising close to Greece but Turkey still has a hold
The Greek island of Lesbos (Lesvos) loomed into view as our catamaran “Sunday” slid gracefully though the water. Ah Greece! Tantalisingly close but Greece was not our destination just yet. Turkey still has a hold on us with many treasures and experiences in store. We were actually on our way to an anchorage in Bademli,…
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Protected seals, Siren calls and shapes in the sky
We all fell in love with Foça – a gorgeous little fishing village with gracious historical houses, old hill-side windmills, lots of open-air waterside restaurants and the remains of a Genoese medieval castle. Formally a Greek village, until the population exchange of 1923, the village has a rich maritime history and the busy little fisherman’s…
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Windiest spot didn’t disappoint
One of the windiest spots in this part of the world – Alaçatı – didn’t disappoint. After a great sail from Sığacak we arrived at Turkey’s windsurfing capital to find a good breeze blowing. Alaçatı is in the province of Çeşme, located in Western Turkey and a short ride from the country’s third largest city…
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Another day – another drama x 4
Before we started our new adventure on S/V Sunday in early 2020 quite a number of friends from Australia had said they would come and visit us. And then Covid hit. Fast forward to this year and we have our very first Aussie visitor- our friend Jackie, a former colleague of mine from Sydney in…
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Death of a scooter and splendid Sığacak
After our window drama we felt in need of a bit of rest and relaxation so we stayed put in Çam Limanı, near the Turkish town of Kusadaşı, for a couple of days. Once Jonathan (aka Capt’n Birdseye) had completed his clever repairs we realised there was no harm done accept that his birthday gift…
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Inundation aboard Sunday as window drops out
Our adventure travelling north from Didim to Istanbul had been pretty uneventful so far but that was to change. On our second night we anchored at Port St Paul, a quiet inlet purported to be the spot that was chosen to rest the oarsmen propelling St Paul towards Ephesus. The main anchorage was crowded so…
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Up close and personal with the locals
After the excellent end-of-winter barbecue at Didim marina, we were absolutely ready to start the new cruising season but first we had one more “last time” thing to do – a meal at the amazing Yacht Club restaurant. Our cruising buddies Sue and John had suggested this as they had a guest aboard – Raylee,…
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Welcome to the Lucky Bastards Club
From Turkbuku – the little seaside village with a reputation (“it’s the place to see, and ‘be seen’”) – we headed off to one of our favourite anchorages in the Turkey’s Aegean Sea. Kıyıkışlacık is that delightful village mentioned in previous blogs where time appears to be standing still. On the way there we were…
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Tulips, terrible tailbacks, terrific get-togethers and back on board Sunday
Freshly back in the Netherlands from my whistle stop family visit of England I had four days to sort out my possessions, repack my bags and spend some precious time with my daughter Hannah and son-in-law Pieter before leaving for Turkey again. It had been only two weeks since Jonathan and I had returned from…