Category: Retirement on a boat
-
Icy weather, hot springs and an ancient city
Day two of our road trip in Turkey aboard our van Frieda: after a cosy sleep despite the chilly weather, we met Jan and Jack for breakfast at their incredibly cute lodgings in Selçuk, Turkey. The breakfast was sumptuous – lots of different cheeses, tomatoes, cucumber, olives, local honey, jams, preserves and copious amounts of…
-
Chance encounter on Turkish road trip
After a week of waiting we finally got word that Frieda, our campervan, was now ready to go on her travels again. She had been in the Ford garage in Izmir, in western Turkey, since New Year’s Eve with a leaking hose caused by a chilly cat with sharp claws that had slept in the…
-
The cat-astrophe continues – causing concerning and almost calamitous consequences!
The last day of the year started ridiculously early with a drive to Izmir Airport to farewell our daughter and son-in-law who were returning to the Netherlands after a busy Christmas holiday with us in Turkey. We arrived in plenty of time for their early morning flight and after sad “goodbyes” we left for the…
-
We meet an old dog with (new) tricks
Time was short as our daughter and son-in-law (Hannah and Pieter) were leaving Turkey on New Year’s Eve so we crammed in as much sightseeing and cultural experiences as possible in the short time we had left. One day we went to Bodrum – a lovely harbour town a couple of hours drive south of…
-
The sun sets on a very special Christmas!
Our Christmas decorations aboard S/V Sunday were complete except for one nostalgic item – the sweet fragrance of a genuine Christmas tree. On our travels around the Didim area we had seen plenty of the hardy little pines so beloved of Europeans at Christmas and decided to try and find somewhere to stop and find…
-
Close shave for cool cat creates havoc
Although we had vowed to have joint birthdays from now on, our yachtie friends at Didim Marina had other ideas! On Jonathan‘s special day we started the celebrations with a sumptuous breakfast at the Yacht Club restaurant with our sailing buddies and next door neighbours, Sue and John. Jonathan opened some of his presents and…
-
Torrential rain!
We had encountered plenty of snow on our drive through Europe from the Netherlands to Turkey but once we crossed the border it was rain and more rain that we had to endure. It poured all night and after a broken sleep due to the incessant drumming on our roof, we left our slippery and…
-
Three countries in 15 minutes, freezing weather and two lucky finds
We had diverted to Hainburg an der Donau in Austria on our road trip between Turkey and the Netherlands in order to fill up with water. Finally successful, we had a good night’s sleep outside the local sports centre. We woke to freezing temperatures – the pond which we had camped next to was completely…
-
On the way to Turkey in our “land yacht”
Our stay in the Netherlands was drawing to a close and we were busy getting ready to drive our “land yacht” (aka our camper van) back to Turkey. Loaded up with enough food and other essentials to last us for at least a few weeks, we set off on a rainy, miserable day. As usual,…
-
Dots in the Belfry – ringing in 70!
This is a hard blog to write because it’s about me having a significant birthday – something I’d rather not talk about too much! However, I had such a wonderful shared celebration with Jonathan (who is three weeks younger than me) that really I cannot pretend it didn’t happen – so here goes! We were…
-
Back on board and then off to the Netherlands!
Back at Didim Marina after the most fantastic trip of South-East Turkey with a group of fellow yachties, we were happy to find all was well aboard S/V Sunday. There was no time to get back into the daily rhythm of life aboard however, as we were booked to fly to the Netherlands in just…
-
Ingenious Roman engineering, a massive mosque and more delectable delicacies
Our tour of south East Turkey was drawing to a close but there were still some fabulous things to see and do. We left the incredible and innovative Museum Hotel in Antakya and drove for around 50 minutes to the shores of the Mediterranean Sea near Samandağ (the medieval port of Saint Symeon). It was…
-
Antioch – foodie heaven and incredible sights
It was a lovely drive from Gaziantep to Hatay, Turkey’s southernmost province – bordered by Syria to the south and the east. Out of the minibus windows along our way we gazed at vast fertile plains that extended as far as the eye could see – with mountains looming in the far distance. Antakya, the…
-
Submerged village and miraculously rescued mesmerising treasures
Our visit to the mysterious tumulus and the ancient heads on top of Mt Nemrut left us feeling intrigued and slightly overwhelmed – quite sure that we had seen the very best that South East Turkey had to offer. However, the following days were equally fascinating and just as enjoyable. The next adventure began with…
-
Dramatic, spectacular and mysterious Mount Nemrut
Each day of our tour in South-East Turkey was simply amazing. Every place we visited was fascinating, beautiful, or spectacular – usually all three. In addition, we managed to tick off several places on our bucket list – one being Mount Nemrut, surely amongst the most dramatic ancient sites we have ever visited. On top…
-
The mysterious secrets of the world’s oldest temple
After leaving atmospheric Mardin in South-East Turkey, we travelled onwards to what has been described as the world’s oldest place of worship – Göbekli Tepe – a mysterious Neolithic archeological site that dates back to between 9600 and 8000 BCE – 6,000 years older than Stonehenge and 7,000 years older than the pyramids! Excavations of…
-
Renovators dream – Roman cistern found!
Just imagine that your family had lived in the same modest house for generations. One day your father starts some renovation work – when he starts digging he finds what appears to be the remains of a staircase. Soon it is apparent that there is something significant down there and he digs down further. Archeologists…
-
Travels in the “Cradle of Civilisation” – part one
Even though we have been travelling more or less full time for six years we never quite get used to saying goodbye to our friends and family. However, the sadness we feel at the parting of ways makes reunions all the sweeter – especially when you meet people again who you last saw in a…
-
The splendour of Ephesus and a sad farewell
The ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey draws massive crowds of visitors – both local and international – every year. I have read that this might partly be because the ruins are easy to access from Izmir airport and Kusadasi, a nearby cruise ship port, but that seems a far too cynical assessment to me.…
-
The place “to be – and to be seen”!
How lucky we were to have brilliant weather for the short voyage with my sister Julia who was visiting our boat Sunday from her home near London, England! We set off from Didim Marina with our sailing buddies Sue and John on S/V Catabella. The weather was glorious and the sea calm and a wonderful…
-
It’s a small world!
It really is a small world, especially when it comes to the yachting community! We had been anchored in Yalikavak for a couple of days when a beautiful Amel ketch called S/V Dusk came into the anchorage. It turned out that this lovely boat belonged to Tracey and Steve Bell from South Africa. After a…
-
Treasures from the deep
Before leaving the picturesque village of Gümüşlük, we were determined to walk across to the other side of the isthmus and up the hill to see the remains of the ancient city of Myndos. The walk across the isthmus didn’t take long and once there, we were captivated by the gorgeous little bays with gin-clear…
-
Gunshots in a lonely anchorage
Kıyıkışlacık and the enchanting remains of ancient Iassos in Turkey would remain in our memories for ever! Our next few stops were less exciting but nevertheless enjoyable. We sailed back down Asin Körfezi, a small gulf at the eastern end of Güllük Körfezi and made for an anchorage in Çam Limanı, a very large bay…
-
Endless surprises
What a fascinating place Iassos is! Located next to the charming village of Kiykislacik, the site holds endless surprises. We had loved wandering around the 4th Century BC (and earlier!) ruins on the perimeter coastline of Iassos but we hadn’t yet walked up to the remains of the medieval castle built by the Knights of…
-
Beware of snakes and scorpions!
It always intrigues us that there are so many ancient sites in Turkey that you scarcely hear of but when visited reveal fascinating surprises and mind blowing history. The site of Iassos is one such place. Originally on an island but now attached to the mainland, it has been settled since the Early Bronze Age.…
-
Our sort of place
We left Bodrum vowing to return as there was so much more to see there. For now we we were pressed for time as our fellow travellers and cruising buddies Sue and John had a flight to catch to the UK and needed to get to Didim where they were going to leave Catabella. They…
-
Ancient treasures from the deep
We were absolutely shocked and horrified to see the level of devastation caused by the August forest fires as we sailed into the Cokertme area near Bodrum in Turkey. It seemed that every millimetre of the hills had been completely ravaged. Considering the wholesale destruction it was an absolute miracle that this tiny little village…
-
Engine fixed – after a few hiccups! So good Söğüt!
To our great relief, we had managed to get our anchor down in the Gökağaç anchorage at Yedi Adlari – despite both our ignition and the anchor hand controller being out of action. We had also managed, with the help of John from S/V Catabella, to shut down the engine (and the dreaded alarm mentioned…
-
“Alarming” breakdown
In my last blog I described the atmospheric beauty of ancient Knidos which lies at the very tip of the Datça peninsula in the south-west of Turkey. It was such a buzz being anchored in this harbour where many thousands of merchant vessels and warships had been anchored before us, over the course of more…
-
Fond farewells and anchored in the shadow of ancient Knidos
Saying “goodbye” is never easy, especially in these Covid times when future meet ups are uncertain with lockdowns and cancelled travel arrangements possibly occurring at the drop of a hat. However, we felt very grateful that our daughter and son-in-law had managed to leave the Netherlands and visit us for two weeks and we have…
-
Third time lucky…..
It is said that “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody any good” and the scary events caused by the Meltimi wind in Datça (mentioned in my previous blog), proved this to be true! Apart from the fact a drowning woman was saved, we also met some great people through the series of events caused…
-
High drama as sail rips and drowning woman rescued
It was such a great relief to have our daughter and husband safely with us on board Sunday after an anxious wait beforehand wondering whether new travel restrictions would be initiated or their PCR tests returned positive. Their arrival had been quite dramatic with terrible bushfires along the coast and lots of smoke and ash…
-
Excitement, anxiety, anticipation and horror
What a week of highs and lows – of excitement and anxiety, of pleasurable anticipation and indescribable horror! We were eagerly waiting for our daughter and son-in-law to arrive from the Netherlands but we weren’t allowing ourselves to get too excited as we have become used to arrangements being cancelled or rules changed at the…
-
Plans “written in the sand at low tide” during Covid
There’s a lovely anchorage in Bozburun so it beats us why people prefer to Med moor (where the anchor is dropped and then the boat is tied to land). We are grateful for this however, as it leaves all the more room for us! More of a village than a town, Bozburun can be reached…
-
Mutiny averted and another road trip
It was great to be on the road again for a day’s exploring before picking up John from S/V Catabella who was due to arrive at Dalaman airport that evening. We decided to head for some interesting spots well in range of the airport as we didn’t want to find ourselves miles away in a…
-
In Marmaris – anchoring versus marina and shattered peace!
The early morning peace at our anchorage outside the Turkish Riviera resort town of Marmaris was shattered by the blaring of horns, tooting, sirens and loud music very close by. A fire boat was spraying water and several vessels were moving in procession with a large Coast Guard ship leading the way. We weren’t sure…
-
Escape from bush fire and cooling oasis
After our exciting Med mooring experiences in the Göcek National Park we left for Marmaris and were looking forward to the sanity of swinging at anchor. We left early (for us!) to take advantage of the relatively light winds and smooth seas as it was predicted that the wind (which at this time of year…
-
Turkish angels to the rescue
I’ve ranted about “Med mooring” before and I know in very deep and crowded anchorages it is a necessity but I will continue to absolutely abhor this way of securing our boat! For the uninitiated, Med mooring is where you anchor in (usually) very deep water and then reverse towards land, stretching back on your…
-
Brief encounters
It was time to move on from Kas so we fuelled up, emptied our holding tanks and left town! As we motored past the beautiful little Bed and Breakfast where we had enjoyed a delicious spread the previous day, we were amazed to see the figure of Aysun, the very generous owner who had presented…
-
Sneaky road trip, riders in the sky, a ghost town and a fabulous breakfast
Lockdown in Turkey has meant we haven’t been able to realise our plans to travel – during the cooler months – to various locations inland. There are so many wonderful places to explore in this amazing country so it has been slightly disappointing. Restrictions have been loosened now however, and we are back travelling over…
-
Celebrating meals out, anchoring dramas and new discoveries
Arriving at Uçağız, the small fishing village in the heart of the landlocked bay of Kekova Roads felt a little like visiting an old friend. We have anchored close to the village more than half a dozen times and always feel so comfortable and welcome when we go ashore. Covid has really hit this little…
-
Walking the plank and drinking at a “pirates only bar”
A week after full lockdown in Turkey finished and Covid restrictions had begun to lift, the engineers at Finike marina started to put our hydraulic passerelle (gangplank) back together. For many weeks it had been propped up with an ingenious steel bar (which we hadn’t asked for but appeared after they had removed the hydraulic…
-
Big news week!
Thinking about what to write in this week’s blog there didn’t seem much news to recount but on second thoughts, there have been at least three events of importance this week. The first is that Turkey came out of full lockdown which means we can walk freely, get boat work done (our gang plank –…
-
Anniversary celebrations and a pre-lockdown escape
This week we celebrated our 35th wedding anniversary on board our very comfortable Lagoon 420 catamaran in Finike Marina, Turkey. Such a contrast to our tiny (28 foot) traditional cutter rig timber cruising yacht on which we spent our first wedding anniversary in 1987 in Ballina, New South Wales, Australia! Although there wasn’t room to…
-
The inexplicable mystique of Delphi
With the successful survey under our belts on Sunday, the catamaran we planned to buy in Athens, Greece, we decided to take a little break. We headed for the ancient archeological site of Delphi, the Greek religious sanctuary sacred to the God Apollo (the god of light, knowledge and harmony), on Mt. Parnassus near the Gulf of Corinth. …
-
Land travel and new sailing adventures
Our sailing adventures over for 2017, we embarked on some land travel in November, leaving Bali Hai on the hard standing in Rebak Marina, Langkawi, in Malaysia. Bali Hai goes on “her holidays” First stop was a flying medical visit to the island of Penang where we also met up with yachtie friends from Charon…
-
The romantic tale of a recaltricant engine and a happy love match
Penuba, one of the stops in the 2015 Sail2ndonesia Rally, is a small, sleepy town on Pulau Selayar in Riau Province. We had been made very welcome there during the rally and had enjoyed staying in its well protected and deep harbour which had been highly prized by the Dutch well over a century earlier. …
-
Best breakfast ever!
We declared it the best breakfast ever – maybe the food wasn’t absolutely the best but the fun factor was 110 per cent! After an early start (we were in the bus by 7am!) we drove from our anchorage at Tangung Bajau, into the centre of Singkawan. We stopped for breakfast in a small and…
-
Andaman Islands here we come!
We had planned to leave Thailand for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands – the furthest outpost of India that allows visiting yachts – on Friday 17 February. This would have given ample time for provisioning and last minute service checks for the three yachts travelling together – Yantara, Smart Choice and Bali Hai and…
-
The “Joy” of giving
Our friends had left but we had so enjoyed our time on Koh Yao Noi with them that we decided to stay on for another couple of days. A beautiful view of karsts, a long tail and Bali Hai To get around the island you really need to hire motor bikes which was what we…