Author: Salty tales from Bali Hai
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Complete peace, a distressing sight, a tele-accident and the moon on fire
It says in the SE Asia Cruising guide that Inglis Island “makes the effort of getting to the Andamans worthwhile” and from our perspective we would absolutely agree. We had so enjoyed our visit to this Indian island paradise the previous week that we decided to take our daughter, who was on a lightening visit…
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The arrival of the VIPs
We parted company with Quintessa, Yantara and Beach House at Havelock Island where we had enjoyed all the facilities – the shops, the restaurants etc – a real contrast to our previous stop, Inglis Island with its magnificent gin-clear waters, beautiful beach and a backdrop of pristine rainforest. Sunrise at Havelock Island It is always…
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A nasty roll and now for Something (Completely) Different
Inglis Island was a paradise but on the second day a nasty roll had set in around sunset. Quite apart from the uncomfortable rocking, we also had the waves banging loudly against the bow of the boat. This potentially could have kept us awake during the night but we all slept so well after the…
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Total tranquility, fishing bare-handed and living like kings
Most people’s image of India is a crowded, hectic, colourful and noisy place. In contrast, waking up in India’s Andaman Islands we were surrounded by the clearest, cleanest water you have ever seen, white beaches and total tranquility, Total tranquility North Button Island was such an idyllic location we decided to stay another day there.…
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The magical experience and an aggravating itch
Waking up in Elphinstone Harbour was a magical experience. We were greeted by glorious birdsong, the water was like glass, the sky a clear blue and it was perfectly peaceful and still. Our small fleet enjoying the beauty of Elphinstone Harbour So it was with reluctance that we departed for Long Island, the next…
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Straight down the strait and boarded by Police
“Closing the gate” at Number two beach on Havelock Island we followed Quintessa, Beach House, Smart Choice and Yantara north to the Homfrey Strait – Bali Hai’s second anchorage (apart from Port Blair) in the Andaman Islands. After about a four hour motor on an uncannily calm sea, we arrived in Elphinstone Harbour at the…
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Havelock Island – crocs, gin-clear water and fresh tuna
With all the formalities completed, our wallets full of rupees and fruit and vegetables purchased, we departed Port Blair on Friday 3 February, heading for Havelock Island. Following Yantara out of our anchorage at Port Blair We had been warned that the anchorage in Port Blair was very muddy so we raised the anchor to…
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Thank you for the music, paper paper everywhere and fascinating tribal people
We were woken up at 6am by loud heavily amplified music from the shore (a long way off!). No it wasn’t a Bollywood musical number, nor a lovely Hindu mantra, it was a 1950’s style marching band with a man “singing” in German although most of the lyrics appeared to be laughing “ha ha ha,…
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India Lite and why all the bureaucracy?
It was fantastic to be back in India again – the colours, the traffic, the kind people – but Port Blair is like “India lite”. The traffic is much less hectic (but still anarchic), the place still has a buzz but there are far fewer people, it is much cleaner and there appears to be…
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Paperwork and tuk tuks
After a three day, three night trip from Phuket in Thailand we were thrilled to have finally anchored in Mangrove Bay in Port Blair on the Andaman Islands. The anchorage in Mangrove Bay in Port Blair. The fishermen loved to come close to check us out Having heard that it can take up to three…
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Getting into the cruising groove
It was great to be on an ocean passage again after sailing up and down the coast and through the islands of Malaysia and Thailand for the last year and a bit. Farewell Phuket! The weather forecast was predicting almost non existent wind in the Andaman Sea for two days with around 15 knots from…
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Andaman Islands here we come!
We had planned to leave Thailand for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands – the furthest outpost of India that allows visiting yachts – on Friday 17 February. This would have given ample time for provisioning and last minute service checks for the three yachts travelling together – Yantara, Smart Choice and Bali Hai and…
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Big brother is watching you!
We left pretty Koh Muk vowing to return again – if only to visit the Emerald Cave when there were no tourists there. There is small but perfect little anchorage near the cave so it would be very easy to wake up early and take the dinghy over at first light. We passed Koh Ngai…
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No Muck at Koh Muk
We left Koh Tarutao in Thailand on 9 February heading for Ao Chalong where we planned to meet up with other boats heading for the Andaman Islands, India’s furthest ocean outpost except for the Nicobar Islands (where visiting yachts are not allowed). Koh Muk We were later than we had first anticipated partly because we…
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Look before you leap -the land has eyes
Suddenly we had come to end of our first boat guest of the year’s two week stay. Our circumnavigation of Langkawi completed we anchored once again in Telaga Harbour. Chinese New Year celebrations at the Billion shopping centre We went for one last delicious (guest’s favourite) tuna steak ashore at Tapaz in Perdana Quay, went…
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Finding the Hole in the Wall and the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden
Even though this was our second visit to the Hole in the Wall in Langkawi it was still a thrill finding the “hole” in the towering cliffs and sailing through into the wide “bowl” the other side. Spot the “hole” Now you can see it! Once again we enjoyed exploring the network of mangroves…
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Living a life of luxury (for a few hours!)
Living on a yacht in SE Asia in January is fabulous – the water is clear, the weather is comparatively settled, it’s hot but not meltingly so. On land there are plenty of restaurants with a million dollar views but with affordable food and beer at a reasonable price. And occasionally you can lob into…
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Getting high in Langkawi
Arriving back from the cold and fog of a Delhi winter it felt very pleasant to be back in the warmth of Langkawi. Bali Hai had been on the hard at Rebak Marina during our trip around northern India, and while we were away her anti foul was replenished by Noel Bradley’s team at Rebak…
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We smell a rat (or quite a few actually!)
We started 2017 as we meant to go on – doing something a little different, out of our comfort zone and really challenging. No, it wasn’t sailing to some far flung place we had never been to, nor was it tackling an ocean with a reputation for being wild – our New Year’s Day was…
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Incredible India
We sadly farewelled our boat guests at Kuah Ferry Terminal where they caught a ferry back to Penang. They would catch their flight to KL from there the following day and then on to Brisbane, Australia. We didn’t have too much time to mope however, as we were also due to hop on a plane…
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Getting away from it all
After all the hassles checking in at Koh Lipe, Thailand it was great to get away from it all on a nearby island, Koh Butang, where we had the beach and anchorage completely to ourselves. It was great to enjoy the clean clear waters and to completely relax for a couple of days. So wonderful…
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Blatant money grab leaves unpleasant taste
We had so enjoyed the gorgeous clear waters of Koh Rawi in the Adana-Rawi archipelago on our last trip from Phuket, Thailand to Langkawi in Malaysia, that we decided to take our boat guests there for a couple of days. Welcome to Koh Lipe! Thailand has so many beautiful spots but boy, we have begun…
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Vertiginous experience
After a few days in Penang with our Aussie friends it was great to be back on Bali Hai with them on the island of Langkawi in Malaysia. Good Ol’ friends As we wanted to give them a sailing trip to the beautiful clear waters of Thailand we only lingered briefly in Langkawi where we…
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Life’s a beach
Our brief visit to Penang was nearly over – we had done busy Georgetown, we had hugged trees at the Oriental Spice Garden and the Botanic Gardens but we still had to go and get some sand between our toes. You would think that Penang being a popular tourist destination its beaches would be if…
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Penang’s wonderful trees and plentiful plants
You hear a lot about the architecture, the food, the cultural delights and the street art of Penang but not so much of the wonderful trees and other plentiful plants that are also so much a part of this wonderful island. In the Tropical Spice Gardens While we were in Penang with our Australian friends…
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Eccentric hilltop restaurant provides break from hubbub of Georgetown
Georgetown in Penang is a melting pot of cultures – vibrant, colourful, bustling with a rich history, fabulous food and amazing street art. Some people can’t get enough of its buzz and pizazz and others like us, yearn for natural habitats and long vistas. That isn’t to say we hadn’t enjoyed wandering round and savouring…
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Birthday celebrations in iconic Penang hotel
Our friends visiting from Australia were meeting us in Penang where we planned to spend a few days together before taking a ferry back to Langkawi – our boat being safely ensconced at Rebak Marina. The “tin can” ferry from Langkawi to Penang We arrived in Penang from Langkawi in a high speed ferry which…
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Dedicated wine drinkers have lean time in Langkawi
As we approached the island of Langkawi in Malaysia the clouds started to roll in on the horizon and we could tell that a storm was imminent. Seems to be the story of our life! We reduced engine speed and moved at a leisurely pace to the entrance of Telaga Harbour. Before too long the…
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He’s got a luverly bunch of coconuts
As soon as our new serpentine belt and pulleys for the Balmar alternator were finally installed we dropped our lines and motored out of Boat Lagoon Marina in Phuket, Thailand. Sadly, because we had to return to Phuket for repairs our leisurely cruise back to Langkawi, in Malaysia was no longer on the cards as…
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Nifty work sets us free from macrame cradle
Early morning is not my best time of day. I’m just not very good at it. However, when I have to get up and get going at the crack of dawn I always love it! We left Koh Rok Nok/Koh Rok Noi, in southern Thailand very early in the morning so that we could reach…
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Girls and Boys come out to play….
Things hadn’t gone quite according to plan. We were back in Phuket because the second belt that had been fitted with our new Balmar alternator and smart regulator work had gone Kaput! Mr Wiwat whose electricians had installed the new set up, could not have been more apologetic. He had thought by installing a second…
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A Broken belt brings us back to Boat Lagoon
We arrived back on board Bali Hai feeling relaxed after a lovely meal in a beautiful beach cafe on Koh Phi Phi Don. View from the beach cafe Our laid back mood was soon dispelled however, when we put on the engine to charge the batteries. One of the two new belts serving our brand…
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Have car will travel
We had hired a car to take our daughter to the airport where we bade a sad farewell. Time to say farewell Nice calm day to bring in the luggage from the anchorage After all the dramas we had experienced at airports in recent times we decided to leave in plenty of time. We were…
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Arriving in Phuket by air and leaving by boat – a one-off payment versus paying a bond
We farewelled the anchorage outside Yacht Haven and made for Ao Chalong, to check out of Thailand before taking a leisurely trip to Langkawi. The anchorage outside Yacht Haven Marina For once we had left loads of time to get to Malaysia so we could enjoy calling in to a few places en route and…
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Inside a postcard
Having had a great time in Koh Yao Noi previously we were keen to take our daughter there during her short stay on Bali Hai. Torrential rain! Glad we weren’t on our way to shore We saw out a heavy early evening rain storm at anchor and then took our chances and went in to…
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A warm green bath and a fishermen’s cave
From our anchorage between Koh Kudu and Koh Kudu Yai it was an easy dinghy ride to the gorgeous hong made famous by Tilda Swinton. Location of the annual film festival Each year she organises an international film festival here and yet there is not a trace of razzmatazz and no film infrastructure remains in…
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More Immigration dramas – daughter’s determination defies Diwali delays
We were tied up at Boat Lagoon Marina, had hired a car and were all set to pick up our daughter at Phuket Airport the following day. Then we received the call – due to an administrative error, her work permit had not been ratified and when she tried to go through Immigration at Delhi…
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Living aboard – great for developing important life skills
Living on a boat helps you develop important life skills – resilience, flexibility, tolerance, patience, compromise and a sense of humour when things go wrong. And go wrong they will – It’s the way of boats, no sooner you have fixed something and another thing goes wrong! We had decided to do a shake down…
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The waiting game
We had planned to leave Boat Lagoon Marina a couple of days after returning from a three-week break in Australia but it wasn’t until ten days after that we finally got away. The “lighthouse” (marina office) at Boat Lagoon Marina The delicious and cheap lunches (Aus$4 between us) were a compensation for all the waiting…
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Arriving back in Phuket with trepidation!
After a great three week break in Brisbane we arrived back in Phuket with a little trepidation as when we went to fly out of Thailand we had been prevented from leaving. On our way back to Phuket flying over Singapore Would they let us in again without a drama? Would we get the…
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Stopped at the border
We were so excited to be returning to Brisbane to see our son and his partner, the granddogs and catch up with other family and friends. The grand doggies All our preparations to leave the boat safely at Boat Lagoon Marina had gone smoothly and we had even found a very nice local yacht captain…
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Neolithic cave paintings?
Continuing our exploration of the shallower, most Northern end of Phang Nga Bay, we made for another cave on the east side of Khao Khian that we had heard about where there were the remains of wall paintings purporting to be from Neolithic times. First sight of the cave paintings Compared to some of the…
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Looking for a cave to run to? We have found a beauty!
We were in a glorious anchorage – Koh Daeng Yai – surrounded by sea mountains at every point of the compass, totally alone except for birds and insects and the occasional fishing boat lazily passing by in the distance. Sea Mountains near Koh Daeng Yai Beautiful as it was, paradise had a flaw – a…
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Hidden hongs and secret caves
The charm of Phang Nga Bay is that you can discover hidden hongs and secret caves that might not be mentioned in any guide or yacht pilot. Sun setting in Phang Nga Bay With that in mind we decided to use the time left before leaving Bali Hai for a three-week trip to Australia, to…
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The “Joy” of giving
Our friends had left but we had so enjoyed our time on Koh Yao Noi with them that we decided to stay on for another couple of days. A beautiful view of karsts, a long tail and Bali Hai To get around the island you really need to hire motor bikes which was what we…
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A sad farewell
All good things come to an end and so it was, that all of a sudden, it was time for our dear friends to leave us and depart Thailand. We had loved their company and had very much enjoyed the luxury of their spacious and comfortable thatched bungalows and all the other facilities in a…
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Not so Easy Rider
We had hired motorbikes for a week on Koh Yao Noi but because of the rainy weather had only used them for short hops. Not so Easy Riders! Although most of the others were experienced riders, riding a bike on my own was a first for me – I’d ridden pillion plenty of times in…
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Sailing at last
After days of rain, high winds and generally inclement weather, we woke up to find that the new day was quite fair although still overcast. Finally we could take our friends who had come to visit us from Australia and Ghana for a sail and show them some of the spectacular scenery which could be…
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Six cook up a storm
With bouts of heavy rain and more blustery conditions on the way, a day of sailing the beautiful waters surrounding Koh Yao Noi seemed pretty well out of the question. Disappointed, we were wondering what to do when one of our group had the bright idea of attending cookery school. We all love to…
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Six go exploring in Koh Yao Noi and discover the secrets of Sabai Corner
It was a grey and rainy day on the first day of our friends’ visit to spend time with us on the good ship Bali Hai so we decided that wheeled transport on land was the way to go to allow the six of us to explore the island of Kao Yao Noi. We hired…