Author: Salty tales from Bali Hai
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Six go aground (with apologies to Enid Blyton)
There we were, our four visitors from Australia (one who had flown in from Ghana) plus luggage, aboard Bali Hai, ready to sail from Boat Haven Marina on Phuket Island, Thailand to Koh Yao Noi, a charming island just a few hours pleasant sail away. We had requested a pilot to bring us in the…
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Old friends, bubbles on Bali Hai and Bangla Road
Catching up with old friends after a few months apart is always great but particularly so when they have come all the way from Australia and Ghana to visit you! Bubbles on Bali Hai – still Peter travelling from Ghana, to come Boat Lagoon in Phuket was the perfect venue to meet up with our…
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Working towards a deadline – again!
As usual, we were working towards a deadline! Bad weather had kept us in Telaga Harbour Marina in Langkawi when we should have been in Phuket preparing to welcome our good friends who were due to arrive from Brisbane any day. Telaga Harbour Marina – with cannons! We were thankful to have had a berth…
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Meandering into Boat Lagoon
Finally we had made it back to Phuket in Thailand and were on our way to Boat Lagoon Marina which is on the East coast of Phuket, and well placed for the airport which meant just a short taxi ride for our friends arriving the following day. Boat Lagoon Marina The water in Sapam Bay…
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Something familiar, something new; Skype in an Indian classroom and farewell to rally friends
Being back in Langkawi felt a little like going home. Everything felt quite familiar and comfortable – which shops to go to stock up, where to hire a car, where to leave the dinghy, the place to buy the best bread, the cheapest place to buy wine, where to have dinner, where the quietest and…
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In and out in five minutes
After the excitement of finding the elusive fisherman’s shrine at Koh Rok Noi, the rest of the trip back to Langkawi, Malaysia, was pretty uneventful. The fishermen’s shrine at Koh Rok Noi We stopped overnight at Koh Lipe in the Butang Group and dropped anchor at Pattaya Beach. Aproaching Koh Lipe Before we went ashore…
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The green dress and the enormous phallus
You get to make some unusual discoveries when cruising. One of our recent and most interesting ones was at an isolated beach on an uninhabited island that we had visited previously, Koh Rok Noi (called Koh Rok Nok in the SE Asia Cruising Guide). Sarn Chao Bay on Koh Rok Noi We had heard that…
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Thailand less travelled
After the hype of James Bond Island we were looking forward to seeing some “real ” Thailand so we headed for the less well travelled island of Koh Yao Yai. The longtail heading for us Just as we dropped anchor, a “long tail” boat (so called because they have second hand car or truck engines…
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My husband, our daughter, the monkey and me
View of the mesmerising Phang Nga Bay from a small beach The trick to exploring the mesmerising Phang Nga Bay is to do it when there are no tourists about. Another wonderful view Bali Hai and her crew were there in June and while the weather at times was rainy and blowing nine bells, there…
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The name is Bond, James Bond
No trip to Phang Nga Bay in Thailand would be complete without a visit to what is now known as “James Bond Island” (Koh Phing Kan). James Bond Island Although we usually try to avoid the most commercial and “touristy” areas we were very pleased that we gave this one a go. The island…
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Finding tranquility in Cathedral-like Hong
The shallow lagoon outside the hong The Hong at Koh Hong can only be entered by dinghy or small motor boat from the shallow lagoon outside at high to middle tide. Fortunately for us, the day we entered it the tide was up early in the morning before any of the tourist boats arrived. Tourist…
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Hanging out in a Hong
Having read some of descriptions of entering and leaving a “Hong” in Phang Nga Bay the thought of exploring one for the first time was making me nervous – for fear of becoming trapped or worse, drowning. The cruising pilot says: “These shallow water fully-enclosed lagoons, open to the sky, are only accessible through caves…
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The land that time forgot
Cruising Phang Nga Bay is like sailing through the land that time forgot – ghostly sheer sided sea mountains rise out of the milky green water like a herd of petrified prehistoric sea monsters. As we sailed towards the Bay from Koh Rang Yai the imposing limestone rocky islands quickly loomed into view on the…
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What a load of Rubbish
We were on our way to Phang Nga Bay – home to the sheer-sided sea mountains, caves “Hongs” and coves. It never ceases to shock us that we see so much rubbish both in the water and on dry land. Just a little of the rubbish that we see almost daily. ….. Rubbish of a…
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An unexpected guest and a negative “island welcome”
One of the stunning views Phuket has to offer Being tourists An unexpected overnight guest arrived – a school friend of our daughter’s who by chance was in Phuket having dental work done – so we had a longer stop in Ao Chalong than first anticipated. But it gave us a chance to do…
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Phuket – just in time
Ok It was like one of those dreams – you know you have to be somewhere but no matter how much effort you put in, you never seem to make any progress. Fortunately, we did eventually make it to Thailand and just in time to meet our daughter at Phuket airport the following day. Nearly…
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Stormy weather
We were on a mission to get to Thailand to pick up our daughter who was flying in from India for a short holiday. Koh Rok Nok It was now 2 June and she was flying in the next day so even though the weather didn’t look the best we had no choice but…
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A little piece of paradise
We didn’t linger in Koh Lipe as we had to get to Thailand to meet our daughter who was arriving from India on 3 June. So on 1 June we left early and headed for Koh Rok Nok, a little piece of paradise, about 40 nautical miles away. Bali Hai off in the distance –…
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To Thailand, water and refrigeration compromised, boat hook jumps ship
Dear Reader (I hope you are still with me), I have neglected this blog shamefully and am very behind. I promise I will catch up very quickly if you can just bear with me. After a whistle stop circumnavigation of Langkawi Island, Malaysia, Bali Hai departed for Thailand on 31 May – first stop Koh…
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Knickerless in wild weather
We left our beautiful anchorage at Teluk Dayang Bunting and made our way back to Kuah where we were to exit Malaysia and make our way to Thailand. Peaceful Teluk Dayang Bunting Before leaving we had some important tasks to complete – have our fridge repaired, stock up on food and duty free alcohol…
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The Pregnant Maiden, A Waterspout and boarded by the Malaysian Navy
We headed out of the eponymous Hole in the Wall and motor sailed a little further round the island of Langkawi hoping to find a quiet anchorage where we would be well protected from the South West Monsoonal winds. The weather forecast was predicting high winds and rain so we wanted to tuck in somewhere…
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Langkawi viewed the right way!
The way to see Langkawi is definitely from the ocean. Until you view the island from the water you can’t fully appreciate its special rugged beauty. Stunning view of Langkawi from the water We left Telaga Harbour on 16 May and headed for Datai Bay passing some spectacular scenery on the way. On arriving…
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Gone Cruising …..
It’s exactly a month since we arrived back at Rebak Marina and what a month it has been – some wild weather, unexpected meetings, new friends, many beautiful locations, and arriving in a new country. Enjoying a meal at Rebak Marina But I am getting ahead of myself. It’s good to be back. It was…
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Too many sad goodbyes
The cruising life is wonderful on every level bar one – there are just too many sad goodbyes. Our son Ben and partner Sarah who came to Cairns to farewell us in June 2015 Our friends (and business partners) Bruce and Anita on Bali Hai First you have to farewell your loved ones at your…
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Hello, hello. Goodbye!
We were up on the hard standing at Rebak Marina, Langkawi. Bali Hai on the travel lift – always a nervewracking time! While Jonathan was doing battle with a multitude of minute but mighty barnacles that clung tightly to Bali Hai’s bottom, I took the opportunity to clean the teak trim (including seats, toe and…
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Biting the bullet and jumping in with both feet
So we have done it, bitten the bullet, thrown caution to the wind, jumped in with both feet, taken the plunge – packed up our little townhouse, had another big chuck out, given more stuff away and put everything else in storage. It’s official! Bali Hai is our home for the next couple of years…
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High speed travel versus slow
It was 31 January 2016 and we were travelling on a wide bodied jet from Brisbane to Singapore at almost 900 km an hour, 38,000 feet in the air. Looking down at the boats strung like jewels across the Singapore strait, it seemed strange that in under eight hours we had completed a trip that…
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2015 in review
The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2015 annual report for this blog. Here’s an excerpt: A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 2,600 times in 2015. If it were a cable car, it would take about 43 trips to carry that many people. Click here to see the…
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Bridge “sail pass” an emotional moment
Sailing with thirty or so other yachts under a bridge that connects the Malaysian Island of Penang to the mainland, was an emotional moment. The first few boats to sail under the Penang Bridge The Penang Bridge goes on for ever! For us the “sail past” was like a full stop to the Sail 2…
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Goodbye Indonesia – hello Malaysia !
Just under two weeks after leaving Indonesia we finally caught up with the tail end of the Sail Malaysia rally fleet, just in time for the last rally event at Pangkor Island Marina. Saying farewell to Hannah at our last stop in Indonesia We left Indonesia from Tanjang Penang on Tuesday 17 November after…
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Ducks in a row to our final destination
In a repeat of our arrival at Debut Island, way back in July, when many of our fleet arrived in Indonesia at the same time in procession, about 20 boats sailed (or rather motored) like ducks in a row from Benan Island to our final destination of the Sail2indonesia Rally, Tanjung Pinang. Our chart plotter…
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Crossing the Equator – aargh Jim Lad
One of the highlights of the Sail2Indonesia rally has got to be the unscheduled stop on a deserted beach at Tanjung Kelit on Dasi Island for a pirate-themed Crossing the Equator party. Our AIS on the chart plotter shows the boats leaving Penuba all in a line. off to the Equator Party! We were…
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Massacre avoided and bats in the belfry
Our trip from Belitung to the quiet village of Penuba on the island of Selayar in the Lingga Group was memorable for a number of reasons. The distance we had to travel was a tricky one – too short to take two full days and nights and too far to set off early one morning…
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Belitung – good for the belly and the tongue!
In order to get a good head start to our next destination – Tanjung Kelayang on Pulau Belitung – we motored to an island, Pulau Serutu, a couple of hours away from Karimata, to spend the night. From there it would be easier to pull up the anchor in the dark and set sail. …
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Low key festival contrasts with party of the year
We were reluctant to leave Ketapang where we had enjoyed a fabulous time. As well as attending the party of the year and a fabulous welcome ceremony, we visited a traditional Malay-style Sultan’s residence, wandered round an urban forest and saw monkeys and a few birds, were entertained at the Sultan’s palace and had a…
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The morning after the night before
With scarcely time to recover from the party of the year at the Dayak village compound, we are summoned to attend the official opening festivities in the quayside at 8am the next day. Bleary eyed and with a few bad heads we all park our dinghies and make our way to the stage…
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What a party! What a night!
The Dayak people of Borneo are renowned for their ferocity and being fearsome blow-piping head hunters but none of the steamy tales of the past even hinted that they throw the best parties involving copious amount of home made hooch, going into trances, standing on sharp blades and biting the heads off chickens! Some…
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Smoke gets in your eyes
The sail in to Borneo was shocking. Not the sailing bit – we had great winds and a rollicking good sail – but the smoke was so bad that it was like sailing in a “good old” 1950’s London peasouper. Fruits de Mer just visible in the murky gloom The stop in Kumai was…
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From beautiful Borobudur to perfect Prambanan
It was hard to tear ourselves away from the beauty and serenity of the eighth century Buddhist temple at Borobudur. Jonathan and I at Borobudur The honeyed stone glowed in the setting sun and although a warning bell at been rung, we were among the many stragglers who wanted to take in one last look…
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Three-night sail and two day land trip to World’s largest Buddhist Temple
Sunset at Borobudur We had a three-night sail from Lovina Beach in Bali to Karimun Java – our first night passage since the end of August when we sailed from Hoga Island to Lowoleba on Lembata Island. Borobudur It was great to be out on the ocean again and we had good winds…
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Farewell Beautiful Bali
We found the opportunity to have a last farewell to beautiful Bali before departing for a very different island, Karimun Jawa. View from my window Lovina Beach, Bali We hired a car for the day with our friends from Fruit de Mer, Anne-Mieke and Gerrit and took off early to see as much as we…
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Another perfect day
We felt like royalty arriving in a convoy of a dozen or so SUVs at Umajero Village in the hills of North Bali. A team of traditionally dressed villagers incongruously armed with the latest in walkie talkie technology directed traffic and organised parking in the narrow laneways leading to the village. With flags…
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Captivating oasis of calm
We were on our way to spend the day at a traditional village in the hills of North Bali with about 40 -50 of the rally participants. Maybe the cow provides the milk for milk chocolate? All of us were eagerly anticipating being guests at this village (Umajero) as it was the first time…
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Lovely Lovina – loving life with life long friends
Weaving our way through numerous fish attracting devices (FADs) of all shapes and sizes and scores of colourful “spider” boats returning from a night’s fishing, we sailed away from Amed Bay just after sunrise. An FAD The early start was mostly to get away from the ghastly swell but we were also anxious…
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Extreme dining
Our trip from Lombok to Bali was uneventful – we had a pleasant day sail in the company of Fruits de Mer and Pacifique. We had decided to do the trip over two days, stopping to sleep at an anchorage en route so we didn’t have to travel at night (so many fish traps in…
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Quality over Quantity
Our stay in Lombok was cut short as the anchorage was incredibly rolly – more rolly than Maurole (dubbed Morerolly) and Namrole (Damnrolly) put together. Such a shame as we were really looking forward to exploring the island. A drummer from the gamelan orchestra at the Lombok welcome Sunday streetscape at Medana Bay The two…
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Let’s go fly a kite!
People who don’t sail might think that those who do spend their time staring at the sea for hours at a time in a state of perfect contemplation but at least on some days that certainly is not the case. Sunrise There is always so much to see and observe, especially when doing day sails…
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Taming the dragons
The highlight of our trip to the Labuan Bajo area was the visit to Rinca to see the renowned Komodo Dragons. We had to leave before dawn to sail to Rinca and get to the ranger’s station before it got too hot and the dragons retreated to the shade. After 10am they tend to lie…
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No lingering in Lingeh Bay
Our trip from Riung to Labuan Bajo was uneventful but nonetheless very pleasant. We saw more pilot whales, a couple of shy dolphins and lot of flying fish. Heading for Labuan Bajo Jonathan sets the fishing line We stopped first in Lingeh Bay, arriving in time for our regular afternoon swim…
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Not rueing the day we went to Ruing
Although we had intended to stay longer in Maurole we set off for Ruing, our next official stop, after one night due to the uncomfortable roll in the anchorage. The water was a magnificent deep navy blue that day and we had a good sail for some of the time although we had to motor…